Okay. I have been really terrible at finishing this blog. Once we wrapped up our on-ship production of "Dog Sees God," finals came in full force. Then, suddenly we were in Hawaii. Then suddenly was the Ambassador's Ball. Then suddenly I was home!
Hawaii was a blast! The first day I.... jumped out of a plane. Literally. It's called skydiving! It was THE SINGLE most amazing experience of my entire life. Scary, empowering, ridiculous, dangerous, and all together FUN! I fell through clouds and watched the waves crash over Hawaii's North Shore. I jumped out of a plane! I still think about it and cannot believe it!
The second part of Hawaii I went with my friend and his parents to the resort his parents were staying at. We enjoyed some luxury and some serious beach time. The next day we all rushed to get back to the ship, only to find that due to inclement weather, we were staying an extra day in Hawaii!!!!!! Not bad; as the rest of the country froze in a huge storm, I tanned on Waikiki Beach!
Then came the realities of ship life, yet again. Finals and boredom and PACKING to go HOME! It all started to get really sad as we realized the voyage was truly coming to and end. I tried to spend as little time studying and packing as possible (haha) and focused on spending time with my friends who live on the far-far-away East Coast.
We all had a great final farewell in the Ambassador's Ball. The food was great and it was nice to see all my friends dress up and look their best. And Obama never came to the ship. We had no guest speaker at all, much to our dismay and disappointment!
So now I've been home for over a week and have had time to reflect on all my experiences. I don't have much desire to draw upon all these in some grand, conclusive entry that will sum up everything of the last 4 months in some cute little phrase. In fact, that would just be dumbing-down what have been some of the most important, influential, great, exciting experiences of my life. But notice I said SOME. Not all of the best things in my life have been on this voyage. I am going to make sure of that. This semester is only the beginning, a chapter in my life. Now, its time for the next chapter, and I can only hope I will have as many great adventures in this chapter as I have had in the last one.
Thursday, December 24, 2009
Monday, November 30, 2009
Dog Sees God
Just a side note on ship happenings: the play I have been working on since we left Mauritius finally went up last night to a packed house! My friends and I performed Bert V. Royal's "Dog Sees God." It was a success and I am very proud of the impact we made on the ship community!
Can't wait to be done with finals, have my cell phone, and be home! Two weeks!
Can't wait to be done with finals, have my cell phone, and be home! Two weeks!
Tuesday, November 24, 2009
The Second Half of Japan
The last two days in Kobe, Japan have been among the best days of my entire Semester at Sea experience. I signed up to do a home-stay through a company called HIPPO. Tami, her husband, her son, who was eighteen, and her daughter, Kumiko, who was fifteen, were my hosts. Even though I had been hoping to be staying with a family with young children because I love Japanese babies, it was a fantastic experience to talk to Kumiko who was around the same age as me. The most exciting element of my host family was that Tami is quite the world traveler! In fact, she has been to Long Beach, California! She knew all about the Queen Mary and in fact had been aboard it when she was nineteen and did a home-stay in Orange County! What a happy accident that she would end up having been to Southern California.
Tami and Kumiko picked me up from the ship and we went to lunch at a traditional Japanese restaurant. Then, we went to a sake museum. We happened to be in the area of Tami’s parents, so we paid them a surprise visit! They served us tea and a dessert they called cream cake. It was so rewarding for me and also for the parents to try and communicate with me in English. I was surprised that they spoke English, as most elderly Japanese do not. The most interesting part of our visit to the parents’ home was seeing the way that Japanese families interact. In America, if you visited your grandparents, you most likely would hug them when you entered their home. In Japan, there was no sentiment or exchange of affection, even between the mother and daughter. This is very typical of Japanese culture.
Finally, we made our way home. Tami’s home was at the top of a hill with spectacular views of Osaka. The winding roads up to the house reminded me of Northern California. My bedroom was a very traditional Japanese room, complete with wood walls and sliding doors and a mat to sleep on. The second I saw my mat, covered in thick blankets, I passed out asleep until dinner. And what a dinner it was! Cooked salmon, broccoli, sushi, edaname, and... octopus balls! No, it’s not what you’re thinking! Octopus balls are fried dough balls with octopus in the center. Let’s just say I wouldn’t eat them again.
At dinner, we were joined by Tami’s husband and son. The father is in the international oil business, so his English was very good. I enjoyed talking to him about the parts of America he’d seen, his opinion on the future of politics in Asia, especially involving China, and his dreams for his children. He wants them to be open to new cultures and new ideas and that is why he and his wife are so happy to have guests from all over the world. But Kumiko was getting mad at her father because she wanted to talk to me alone, so I excused myself and went back to the game room to hang out with Kumiko. She showed me pictures of all her friends and then taught me this awesome video game. It is like Guitar Hero, but instead of playing the guitar, the player plays a taiko drum! It was so much fun even though I was horrible at the game.
I slept like a baby and woke up to a fabulous breakfast prepared by Tami. Tami is not a housewife by choice (her dream is to teach English, but, as she shared, her husband prefers that she stays at home), but she sure is an excellent cook. We watched Japanese housewife tv programs until we left for Tami’s friend’s house.
It was a grand gathering of Tami and her girlfriends, all members of the home-stay HIPPO program, all hosting other Semester at Sea students. We learned calligraphy and origami with several Japanese housewives and their children. Then, most importantly, we ate! It was a potluck unrivaled! The most exciting part of the whole day was when Pero, our host, decided to put on music while we ate. She put on The Beatles! I just about died. There I was, eating potluck in a Japanese home, listening to I Want to Hold Your Hand. Some things are truly, truly universal, I guess.
After eating and drinking some delicious Hawaiian coffee (LOL), our group headed to a Buddhist temple. The air is so crisp in the cool Japan winter, and the cherry blossom tree-leaves are all a striking red-orange. No matter where one looks, the scenery is breath-taking.
Sadly, it was time to say goodbye to our new friends. But, I truly know that I will stay in touch with my host family. It was not just that they were friendly and hospitable—it was so much more. Here were people, half way across the world, who shared the same ideals that I will strive to achieve in my everyday life. They want to experience new cultures. They want to try new foods, learn new languages. They want to meet new people. They travel the world in hopes of better themselves and others. They take their children to Paris, opening their eyes to the world outside the oft-culturally-isolated Japan. These are the kind of people I want to surround myself with. And, happily, for the last two days, I did.
Well, this is just about it. In this I mean that I will be visiting no more foreign countries. Spain, Morocco, Ghana, South Africa, Mauritius, India, Vietnam, China, and now, finally, Japan. Our next stop is Hawaii. US territory. Home. Home? I can’t wait to use my cell phone and go to Starbucks and use US dollars. At the same time, I don’t want this semester to end.
Tami and Kumiko picked me up from the ship and we went to lunch at a traditional Japanese restaurant. Then, we went to a sake museum. We happened to be in the area of Tami’s parents, so we paid them a surprise visit! They served us tea and a dessert they called cream cake. It was so rewarding for me and also for the parents to try and communicate with me in English. I was surprised that they spoke English, as most elderly Japanese do not. The most interesting part of our visit to the parents’ home was seeing the way that Japanese families interact. In America, if you visited your grandparents, you most likely would hug them when you entered their home. In Japan, there was no sentiment or exchange of affection, even between the mother and daughter. This is very typical of Japanese culture.
Finally, we made our way home. Tami’s home was at the top of a hill with spectacular views of Osaka. The winding roads up to the house reminded me of Northern California. My bedroom was a very traditional Japanese room, complete with wood walls and sliding doors and a mat to sleep on. The second I saw my mat, covered in thick blankets, I passed out asleep until dinner. And what a dinner it was! Cooked salmon, broccoli, sushi, edaname, and... octopus balls! No, it’s not what you’re thinking! Octopus balls are fried dough balls with octopus in the center. Let’s just say I wouldn’t eat them again.
At dinner, we were joined by Tami’s husband and son. The father is in the international oil business, so his English was very good. I enjoyed talking to him about the parts of America he’d seen, his opinion on the future of politics in Asia, especially involving China, and his dreams for his children. He wants them to be open to new cultures and new ideas and that is why he and his wife are so happy to have guests from all over the world. But Kumiko was getting mad at her father because she wanted to talk to me alone, so I excused myself and went back to the game room to hang out with Kumiko. She showed me pictures of all her friends and then taught me this awesome video game. It is like Guitar Hero, but instead of playing the guitar, the player plays a taiko drum! It was so much fun even though I was horrible at the game.
I slept like a baby and woke up to a fabulous breakfast prepared by Tami. Tami is not a housewife by choice (her dream is to teach English, but, as she shared, her husband prefers that she stays at home), but she sure is an excellent cook. We watched Japanese housewife tv programs until we left for Tami’s friend’s house.
It was a grand gathering of Tami and her girlfriends, all members of the home-stay HIPPO program, all hosting other Semester at Sea students. We learned calligraphy and origami with several Japanese housewives and their children. Then, most importantly, we ate! It was a potluck unrivaled! The most exciting part of the whole day was when Pero, our host, decided to put on music while we ate. She put on The Beatles! I just about died. There I was, eating potluck in a Japanese home, listening to I Want to Hold Your Hand. Some things are truly, truly universal, I guess.
After eating and drinking some delicious Hawaiian coffee (LOL), our group headed to a Buddhist temple. The air is so crisp in the cool Japan winter, and the cherry blossom tree-leaves are all a striking red-orange. No matter where one looks, the scenery is breath-taking.
Sadly, it was time to say goodbye to our new friends. But, I truly know that I will stay in touch with my host family. It was not just that they were friendly and hospitable—it was so much more. Here were people, half way across the world, who shared the same ideals that I will strive to achieve in my everyday life. They want to experience new cultures. They want to try new foods, learn new languages. They want to meet new people. They travel the world in hopes of better themselves and others. They take their children to Paris, opening their eyes to the world outside the oft-culturally-isolated Japan. These are the kind of people I want to surround myself with. And, happily, for the last two days, I did.
Well, this is just about it. In this I mean that I will be visiting no more foreign countries. Spain, Morocco, Ghana, South Africa, Mauritius, India, Vietnam, China, and now, finally, Japan. Our next stop is Hawaii. US territory. Home. Home? I can’t wait to use my cell phone and go to Starbucks and use US dollars. At the same time, I don’t want this semester to end.
Sunday, November 22, 2009
The First Half of Japan
Day 1: The ship docked in Yokohama, a small city about a half an hour outside of Tokyo. The MV Explorer was greeted by taiko drummers on the dock, celebrating our arrival! Despite my having previously been to Tokyo, I could not resist its beckoning; the moment the ship was cleared I hopped on the subway towards Tokyo Tower. My friends were thankful I had been to Japan before and had a limited but valuable knowledge of navigating the subway system... which certainly isn't easy. Rebecca and I never made it up Tokyo Tower 3 years ago when we visited Japan, so I was eager to see it the second time around. After some spectacular views of the city 150m up, followed by a pleasant lunch, we hopped back on the train towards Harajuku in all its funky glory. It was heartwarming to return to Harajuku, one of my favorite places on earth, and also rewarding to see my friends see it for the first time. We found a shop where everything was 100yen (about $1) and explored the hip, goth, rocker, girlie, everything shops throughout the city. Sunday is the big day for the cos-players to come out, and since we were there on Friday, I only saw a few kids in their full regalia. But Harajuku could be completely empty and its funky alt vibes would still penetrate.
We went back onto the train and headed to my favorite district in Tokyo, Shibuya. We walked the busiest intersection in the entire world, saw the nine-story shopping mall, and ate at a sushi bar! Shibuya is like a clean and more glamorous Manhattan… on steroids. Ashley, Jules and I went bowling at this crazy eight-story arcade and we had a blast watching the locals hang out. We took the train back to the ship, exhausted in the way that only a city like Tokyo can exhaust you.
Day 2: Waking up on the ship would seem to be the same every morning, no matter what country the ship is docked in at that very moment. But waking up in Japan, you can FEEL it. You know you are in the home of samurais, emperors, harajuku girls, capsule hotels, sushi, geishas, intrinsic peace, sky-high buildings, compacted living spaces, and sake. A few girls who were headed to hostels in Tokyo joined Jules and I for lunch (sushi for me, of course) at Shibuya Station. Then, Jules and I hopped on another train bound for Asakusa, another district of Tokyo. We saw the beautiful temple that I had visited years before. We shopped more than we should of, and I joyfully indulged in a green-tea soft serve!
With only a few more hours remaining until we had to be back on the ship, Jules and I hit Shinjuku. Shinjuku is like Las Vegas, New York, Hong Kong, and Shibuya, with Harajuku flair... and then some! It is insane, filled with shops, neon lights and lots and lots of pachinko! Pachinko is this insane Japanese pin-ball slot machine gambling game and the center of its culture lies in Shinjuku. After some hilarious photos in one of those Japanese photo booths, Jules and I found ourselves at a restaurant that promised everything on the menu was only 270yen (less than $3 per dish and drink)! We had to walk upstairs to the restaurant, and when we finally got there, we saw that each table was individually separated by bars! It was like you were eating dinner in a cage! You ordered your food on an electronic menu—it was very futuristic and surreal. Luckily, one of the waitresses spoke Japanese, as the electronic menu was certainly not legible to us. The most exciting dish I ate was fried octopus, with all eight tentacles still attached! We spent way too long in the restaurant, impulsively ordering more food and drinks with the logic that everything was less than $3! It was a blast, but we had to high-tail it back to Yokohama because the ship was leaving!
It was refreshing to not feel compelled to buy souvenirs, as I already bought cheesy Japan t-shirts and the like the last time I was in Tokyo. It was spectacular to return to a country and find it comfortingly the same yet excitingly changed. It makes me long to re-visit even more countries! You know, like Spain, Morocco, Ghana, South Africa, Mauritius, India, Vietnam and China!
Now, I am back on the ship for today. We reach Kobe tomorrow, where I will be meeting my host family for my overnight home-stay. I can’t wait to experience the reality of Japanese home life!
We went back onto the train and headed to my favorite district in Tokyo, Shibuya. We walked the busiest intersection in the entire world, saw the nine-story shopping mall, and ate at a sushi bar! Shibuya is like a clean and more glamorous Manhattan… on steroids. Ashley, Jules and I went bowling at this crazy eight-story arcade and we had a blast watching the locals hang out. We took the train back to the ship, exhausted in the way that only a city like Tokyo can exhaust you.
Day 2: Waking up on the ship would seem to be the same every morning, no matter what country the ship is docked in at that very moment. But waking up in Japan, you can FEEL it. You know you are in the home of samurais, emperors, harajuku girls, capsule hotels, sushi, geishas, intrinsic peace, sky-high buildings, compacted living spaces, and sake. A few girls who were headed to hostels in Tokyo joined Jules and I for lunch (sushi for me, of course) at Shibuya Station. Then, Jules and I hopped on another train bound for Asakusa, another district of Tokyo. We saw the beautiful temple that I had visited years before. We shopped more than we should of, and I joyfully indulged in a green-tea soft serve!
With only a few more hours remaining until we had to be back on the ship, Jules and I hit Shinjuku. Shinjuku is like Las Vegas, New York, Hong Kong, and Shibuya, with Harajuku flair... and then some! It is insane, filled with shops, neon lights and lots and lots of pachinko! Pachinko is this insane Japanese pin-ball slot machine gambling game and the center of its culture lies in Shinjuku. After some hilarious photos in one of those Japanese photo booths, Jules and I found ourselves at a restaurant that promised everything on the menu was only 270yen (less than $3 per dish and drink)! We had to walk upstairs to the restaurant, and when we finally got there, we saw that each table was individually separated by bars! It was like you were eating dinner in a cage! You ordered your food on an electronic menu—it was very futuristic and surreal. Luckily, one of the waitresses spoke Japanese, as the electronic menu was certainly not legible to us. The most exciting dish I ate was fried octopus, with all eight tentacles still attached! We spent way too long in the restaurant, impulsively ordering more food and drinks with the logic that everything was less than $3! It was a blast, but we had to high-tail it back to Yokohama because the ship was leaving!
It was refreshing to not feel compelled to buy souvenirs, as I already bought cheesy Japan t-shirts and the like the last time I was in Tokyo. It was spectacular to return to a country and find it comfortingly the same yet excitingly changed. It makes me long to re-visit even more countries! You know, like Spain, Morocco, Ghana, South Africa, Mauritius, India, Vietnam and China!
Now, I am back on the ship for today. We reach Kobe tomorrow, where I will be meeting my host family for my overnight home-stay. I can’t wait to experience the reality of Japanese home life!
Monday, November 16, 2009
The Great Adventure
The Great Adventure that is China. Where can I begin?
The ship docked in Hong Kong on day 1. Actually, we were docked off of the island of Hong Kong in the island Kowloon. Of course, we all immediately wanted to go shopping! We rode the longest escalator in the world! It goes through the entire city of Hong Kong and it is hop-on-hop off. The escalator to nowhere truly exists!!! After some Thai food (LOL--Hong Kong IS an international city, after all!) and some more shopping, we headed to Victoria's Peak, which boasts spectacular views of all of the Hong Kong island chain. We had drinks at the Bubba Gump's at the top of the Peak Tower! Yes, this landmark was a shopping center. In China, every store is a mall.
Later that day we all went out to the social area of Hong Kong. It is the nightlife capital of the world! I had so much fun experiencing this exciting city. We had heard that there was an ice bar in Hong Kong. We really wanted to go to because there are ice bars all over the world and they are really famous and popular because, hey, everything in the bar is made of ice! Well, this ice bar in Hong Kong was certainly not an official ice bar! It was just a room that had ice in it! It was hilarious so of course we hung out there all night!
The next day I went on an SAS trip. We did Tai Chi with this little old Chinese man! It was actually really difficult, but maybe because it was really early and I had been out all night in Hong Kong the night before! I realized the key to successfully traveling: do not sleep. Stay out all night and wake up early the next day! It works... sort of...
The trip continued with some dim sum and then a tea ceremony. I love tea so this was really enjoyable. It was like wine-tasting, but with tea! Then we went to a water village. All these house-boats just chill in the river water and entire villages live on them! It was so beautiful. The highlight for me was the little dog, Rose, who helped drive our tour boat! She was the cutest dog in all of Hong Kong!
That night I met up with my friend Becky so we could venture forth to our hostel. Instead of staying on the ship as it sailed to Shanghai, we decided to independently traverse China and meet the ship later. Our hostel was in Hong Kong. We miraculously found it, even though it was literally inside of a mall (because every store is a mall). It was certainly not the worst hostel in the world, but it was certainly not the best. It was hot and sticky and dirty, but nothing was stolen from us and it cost about $5 each. That night we hit up a night market in the city and had a blast bargaining for dresses, souvenirs and gifts.
The next day we got up early and took the MTR (subway) to the Tian Tan Buddha, which is the largest outdoor Buddha in the world! It is made entirely of bronze. Even though it was foggy and FREEZING at the top of the enormous mountain we cable-cared and then hiked up, the Buddha was so beautiful and grand and magnificent. The only part that really sucked was we were carrying our backpacks with us and had to lug them all the way up to the top of the Buddha!
Next, we took the MTR to the Hong Kong train station where we hopped on our sleeper train for Shanghai. Have you ever ridden a sleeper train in China? Let me describe it for you. Your journey begins with 400 Chinese people pushing you onto the train because pushing is perfectly acceptable, and, in fact, expected in China. Then you will hopefully claim one of the bottom bunks in your cabin because there are no ladders and there are three stories of bunk beds! (Becky and I got the bottom bunks thank goodness!) Then, a Chinese woman who speaks English will yell at you for quite sometime. Then you will be pointed at, laughed at, and starred at by everyone on your train car. This all will be followed by some loud Chinese music coming from the cabin over. Oh, and who could forget your box dinner that consists of... well, I ate it, but I honestly couldn't tell you what it was! If you cough (which I certainly did--I think I have a sinus infection) your train-companions will freak out, convinced you have swine flu. Then at 10pm everyone will go to sleep, and at 6am everyone will wake up for some... delicious... rice porridge. Oh, and who could forget the squatter toilets and lack of both toilet paper and showers?
The truth is, it was one of the most fun and exciting 20 hours of my life! Becky and I passed the time playing card games with her South African card deck, which I found to be most telling of SAS as a whole. Oh, and we slept. A lot.
After my lovely awakening on the train by the sound of high-pitched Chinese singing and the smell of rice porridge, we got off the train and headed to our next hostel in Shanghai. OMG this was the most amazing hostel I've ever seen. It was like out of a dream! The workers spoke English, there was a bar and restaurant inside the lounge, there was a lounge!, our rooms were amazing, the door locked and there were even safes to put your stuff in! I can't wait to show pictures, this place was happening! And nearly everyone staying there was young, mostly European, and really cool for the most part.
We dropped our stuff of at the hostel and then headed for Shanghai's Old City. It was beautiful! Lots of old architecture and, of course, stores that were malls. In the Old City we found a tea shop and had tea samplings and ended up buying loose jasmine tea and some mugs. It was hilarious because China is famous for its bargaining, but one would not think to haggle in a nice tea shop! The woman, who kept insisting that I MUST be half-Chinese, brought the tea mugs down from $128 to $20. In a very nice tea shop! It is insane! You can walk into the equivalent of Nordstrom's and bargain. Which is what we did!!!
After some amazing dumplings, Becky and I took a cab to an acrobatic show! It was actually really cool. Some of it was so ridiculously unsafe it wasn't even fun to watch, but there was at least one dance that really stuck with me. Then we headed back to the hostel that had basically become a bar because they had happy hour! All the guests came down and it was so much fun meeting other travelers. The best part of the night came when I was reading some advertisements put up on the community board in the lounge. I saw an ad for a tour agency in Shanghai and in the picture in the ad was a tourist wearing a Semester at Sea sweatshirt! It was so crazy to think how much this program has left its mark. It probably was only super exciting to me and the other SAS people who were staying at this hostel. There was actually a pretty big group of us, even though only Becky and I had planned it together.
The next morning we woke up and went to an antiques market. The only problem was I felt really really sick. The sinus infection mixed with lack of sleep and China's air quality, not to mention its in the 50 degree range right now, just made things horrible and I had to go back to the ship, which was now docked in Shanghai. After a five hour nap, I headed back out. I can't be stopped--we're in China! Becky, Rachael and I went shopping on the famous Bund. It is like New York City on Asian steroids!
Today a bunch of us went out shopping at this huge indoor market. There were a ton of things we wanted to do outside, but its pouring rain and FREEZING!!! I spent way way way too much money on fakes so good you seriously don't know if they're real or fake. I bought some Uggs for $20, several Marc Jacobs bags, and more Louis Vuitton! It is seriously out of control. Katie, Rachael and I have decided that we can no longer shop together anymore because we are really bad influences on each other when shopping! Vietnam already killed us and now we were doing it again in Shanghai!
I had an amazing time in China. It is a country that will stress you out to no end as you fight crowds, constantly have Chinese screamed at you, and push your way through shopping centers as shop keeps battle for your Yuan. Traveling independently was one of the best decisions I have made on this whole trip so far. I can, with only one other girl with me, travel hundreds of miles across China with nothing but my backpack! I can do that! It was spectacular and we kept nervously commenting that nothing had gone wrong. One might expect that at least one travesty would occur on such an ambitious trip, but nothing bad happened. Now my ego is just at insanely high levels. I'm unstoppable! ; )
I was so happy to get back onto the ship a few hours ago and snuggle in my bed because it is so rainy outside. We were supposed to leave for Japan tonight, but for some reason the ship is now leaving tomorrow afternoon. There are a ton of rumors circulating as to why the ship is delayed, namely because we are supposed to have a huge guest speaker soon. It is just too convenient for the rumor mill that Obama is currently only a few miles away from the ship in Shanghai... I'll keep you all posted.
The ship docked in Hong Kong on day 1. Actually, we were docked off of the island of Hong Kong in the island Kowloon. Of course, we all immediately wanted to go shopping! We rode the longest escalator in the world! It goes through the entire city of Hong Kong and it is hop-on-hop off. The escalator to nowhere truly exists!!! After some Thai food (LOL--Hong Kong IS an international city, after all!) and some more shopping, we headed to Victoria's Peak, which boasts spectacular views of all of the Hong Kong island chain. We had drinks at the Bubba Gump's at the top of the Peak Tower! Yes, this landmark was a shopping center. In China, every store is a mall.
Later that day we all went out to the social area of Hong Kong. It is the nightlife capital of the world! I had so much fun experiencing this exciting city. We had heard that there was an ice bar in Hong Kong. We really wanted to go to because there are ice bars all over the world and they are really famous and popular because, hey, everything in the bar is made of ice! Well, this ice bar in Hong Kong was certainly not an official ice bar! It was just a room that had ice in it! It was hilarious so of course we hung out there all night!
The next day I went on an SAS trip. We did Tai Chi with this little old Chinese man! It was actually really difficult, but maybe because it was really early and I had been out all night in Hong Kong the night before! I realized the key to successfully traveling: do not sleep. Stay out all night and wake up early the next day! It works... sort of...
The trip continued with some dim sum and then a tea ceremony. I love tea so this was really enjoyable. It was like wine-tasting, but with tea! Then we went to a water village. All these house-boats just chill in the river water and entire villages live on them! It was so beautiful. The highlight for me was the little dog, Rose, who helped drive our tour boat! She was the cutest dog in all of Hong Kong!
That night I met up with my friend Becky so we could venture forth to our hostel. Instead of staying on the ship as it sailed to Shanghai, we decided to independently traverse China and meet the ship later. Our hostel was in Hong Kong. We miraculously found it, even though it was literally inside of a mall (because every store is a mall). It was certainly not the worst hostel in the world, but it was certainly not the best. It was hot and sticky and dirty, but nothing was stolen from us and it cost about $5 each. That night we hit up a night market in the city and had a blast bargaining for dresses, souvenirs and gifts.
The next day we got up early and took the MTR (subway) to the Tian Tan Buddha, which is the largest outdoor Buddha in the world! It is made entirely of bronze. Even though it was foggy and FREEZING at the top of the enormous mountain we cable-cared and then hiked up, the Buddha was so beautiful and grand and magnificent. The only part that really sucked was we were carrying our backpacks with us and had to lug them all the way up to the top of the Buddha!
Next, we took the MTR to the Hong Kong train station where we hopped on our sleeper train for Shanghai. Have you ever ridden a sleeper train in China? Let me describe it for you. Your journey begins with 400 Chinese people pushing you onto the train because pushing is perfectly acceptable, and, in fact, expected in China. Then you will hopefully claim one of the bottom bunks in your cabin because there are no ladders and there are three stories of bunk beds! (Becky and I got the bottom bunks thank goodness!) Then, a Chinese woman who speaks English will yell at you for quite sometime. Then you will be pointed at, laughed at, and starred at by everyone on your train car. This all will be followed by some loud Chinese music coming from the cabin over. Oh, and who could forget your box dinner that consists of... well, I ate it, but I honestly couldn't tell you what it was! If you cough (which I certainly did--I think I have a sinus infection) your train-companions will freak out, convinced you have swine flu. Then at 10pm everyone will go to sleep, and at 6am everyone will wake up for some... delicious... rice porridge. Oh, and who could forget the squatter toilets and lack of both toilet paper and showers?
The truth is, it was one of the most fun and exciting 20 hours of my life! Becky and I passed the time playing card games with her South African card deck, which I found to be most telling of SAS as a whole. Oh, and we slept. A lot.
After my lovely awakening on the train by the sound of high-pitched Chinese singing and the smell of rice porridge, we got off the train and headed to our next hostel in Shanghai. OMG this was the most amazing hostel I've ever seen. It was like out of a dream! The workers spoke English, there was a bar and restaurant inside the lounge, there was a lounge!, our rooms were amazing, the door locked and there were even safes to put your stuff in! I can't wait to show pictures, this place was happening! And nearly everyone staying there was young, mostly European, and really cool for the most part.
We dropped our stuff of at the hostel and then headed for Shanghai's Old City. It was beautiful! Lots of old architecture and, of course, stores that were malls. In the Old City we found a tea shop and had tea samplings and ended up buying loose jasmine tea and some mugs. It was hilarious because China is famous for its bargaining, but one would not think to haggle in a nice tea shop! The woman, who kept insisting that I MUST be half-Chinese, brought the tea mugs down from $128 to $20. In a very nice tea shop! It is insane! You can walk into the equivalent of Nordstrom's and bargain. Which is what we did!!!
After some amazing dumplings, Becky and I took a cab to an acrobatic show! It was actually really cool. Some of it was so ridiculously unsafe it wasn't even fun to watch, but there was at least one dance that really stuck with me. Then we headed back to the hostel that had basically become a bar because they had happy hour! All the guests came down and it was so much fun meeting other travelers. The best part of the night came when I was reading some advertisements put up on the community board in the lounge. I saw an ad for a tour agency in Shanghai and in the picture in the ad was a tourist wearing a Semester at Sea sweatshirt! It was so crazy to think how much this program has left its mark. It probably was only super exciting to me and the other SAS people who were staying at this hostel. There was actually a pretty big group of us, even though only Becky and I had planned it together.
The next morning we woke up and went to an antiques market. The only problem was I felt really really sick. The sinus infection mixed with lack of sleep and China's air quality, not to mention its in the 50 degree range right now, just made things horrible and I had to go back to the ship, which was now docked in Shanghai. After a five hour nap, I headed back out. I can't be stopped--we're in China! Becky, Rachael and I went shopping on the famous Bund. It is like New York City on Asian steroids!
Today a bunch of us went out shopping at this huge indoor market. There were a ton of things we wanted to do outside, but its pouring rain and FREEZING!!! I spent way way way too much money on fakes so good you seriously don't know if they're real or fake. I bought some Uggs for $20, several Marc Jacobs bags, and more Louis Vuitton! It is seriously out of control. Katie, Rachael and I have decided that we can no longer shop together anymore because we are really bad influences on each other when shopping! Vietnam already killed us and now we were doing it again in Shanghai!
I had an amazing time in China. It is a country that will stress you out to no end as you fight crowds, constantly have Chinese screamed at you, and push your way through shopping centers as shop keeps battle for your Yuan. Traveling independently was one of the best decisions I have made on this whole trip so far. I can, with only one other girl with me, travel hundreds of miles across China with nothing but my backpack! I can do that! It was spectacular and we kept nervously commenting that nothing had gone wrong. One might expect that at least one travesty would occur on such an ambitious trip, but nothing bad happened. Now my ego is just at insanely high levels. I'm unstoppable! ; )
I was so happy to get back onto the ship a few hours ago and snuggle in my bed because it is so rainy outside. We were supposed to leave for Japan tonight, but for some reason the ship is now leaving tomorrow afternoon. There are a ton of rumors circulating as to why the ship is delayed, namely because we are supposed to have a huge guest speaker soon. It is just too convenient for the rumor mill that Obama is currently only a few miles away from the ship in Shanghai... I'll keep you all posted.
Sunday, November 8, 2009
'Nam
Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam. Insane. Motorbikes, smog, communism.
Day 1: My friends Katie and Rachael came with me to meet my Mommy at the Rex Hotel. It was so awesome of her to meet me in VN! Our first stop was to the tailor to get measured for a custom dress! I’ll be wearing my coral and champagne colored dress to at the Ambassador’s Ball, the big dance at the end of our voyage. Then we stopped at our hotel, which was outside of the touristy area of HCMC. Our hotel was amazing—more like a bed and breakfast! Trang, the hotel manager, took great care of us with everything from breakfast to tips to calling us drivers to fresh mangos in our hotel room! Then, we hit the market for some SERIOUS shopping. The most ridiculously real fakes in the entire world find their home in Vietnam. I stocked up on Marc Jacobs bags, Louis Vuitton bags, and Northface gear. And, of course, I bought a straw cone hat! That night we went to the infamous Pho 2000 restaurant where Bill Clinton dined when he was reestablishing diplomatic relations with Vietnam in 2000. I love pho!!!!!!!!!
Day 2: Mom and I hit the Cu Chi Tunnels and the Cao Di temple. The temple was bizarre. The religion is like a combination of Christianity, Buddhism and Daoism. Sort of. Then our driver took us to the Cu Chi temples where we saw first hand the underground tunnel system that the Vietcong literally lived in during wars—first with the French and then with the US. These tunnels were so complex and are still standing, at least those tunnels that were not bombed out by US planes. It is no wonder we lost the Vietnam War; our enemy was literally impenetrable. We watched an anti-American propaganda video before touring the tunnels. It was so interesting to see how the current Vietnamese government has transformed what they call the American War from a civil war that the US became involved in, to a war between the Vietnamese and the Americans. Since all of VN is united now, the government likes to paint the image that the country was always united, all banning together against the “cruel and horrible” American soldiers.
That night Mom and I went back to the non-touristy area of HCMC where our hotel was located. We walked around the area and discovered active night-life at the local park. Everything from dance lessons to games to late-night working out to young lovers stealing a moment took place in this beautiful and extensive park. It was a fantastic and unique experience to be flies-on-the-wall in this section of VN—we were literally the only white people in the entire park.
Day 3: The next morning I showed my Mom my home, the MV Explorer. I also loaded her up with souvenirs to take home to alleviate my packing process in December! Then we hit the War Remnants Museum. A lot of the information presented at this museum was anti-American, which I truly appreciate seeing; at least it’s a different perspective! I learned a great deal about Agent Orange, which was the chemical the US planes spread all over VN during the war. Since the Vietcong lived and hid in the deep thickets of the VN jungle, the only way the US planes could successfully kill the VC was by destroying their hideaways. We decided to us the most toxic chemical known the man kind, now referred to as Agent Orange. Our planes sprayed this chemical all over the country, both in the North and the South. The chemical did not just kill plants; it also killed and deformed the humans living amongst these plants. It did not just harm Vietnamese citizens; it also killed and deformed US soldiers who came in close contact to the chemical. Agent Orange stays in one’s DNA for four generations; all over VN one sees deformed and mutilated people who have been affected by Agent Orange. At home in America, we do not like to discuss the horrible deaths and deformities that have been caused by Agent Orange. But both Vietnamese and Americans have been, and still are, affected by Agent Orange.
Anyway, at the War Museum, there were extensive photographs of victims of Agent Orange and other events of the war. Outside the museum sat US military planes and tanks that had just been left in VN once the US pulled out. Mom and I were walking among the tanks when we heard an American voice say, “There it is,” when he saw the biggest tank. We went over to talk to him. He had tears in his eyes as he sat and looked at these huge, overwhelming weapons of mass destruction. We asked him if he was a Vietnam vet, and the woman who was with him told us that he was. She was a therapist who leads a group called Soldier’s Heart. She and her husband lead groups of people, mostly vets, who come face-to-face with their enemies in order to forgive their enemies and themselves. This veteran from Wisconsin was, bravely, returning to VN to heal. It was so powerful to be a part of his healing.
The war may have been years ago, not even in my own lifetime, but here I was, standing in front of this man who was still, to this day, so deeply affected by the things he saw in the country we were both visiting. It is easy, I think, for my generation to forget or dismiss the Vietnam War as part of all the craziness that was the 1970s. But what truly slapped me in the face was the fact that this is not history—this is present. My parents, my teachers, my family, and this veteran, were all, and still are, incredibly affected and changed by the war. America was affected by the war. It was the first war we lost, and the first war where there did not seem to be definitive sides of “good” and “evil.” Vietnam, although they have moved on from the war in terms of their country’s psyche in a way America has not, is still affected by the war. Agent Orange still abounds. Huge craters litter the countryside from bombs. The tunnels still remain. And, of course, the result of the war was that the North took VN; they are a Communist country.
Meeting the veteran was one of the most important and definitive experiences of my life. War is something huge and real; I don’t think I’ve ever experienced anything like that in my life. I write this and feel silly; my country is at war right now, at this very moment. People are dying at the hands of my countrymen in both Iraq and Afghanistan. Why is it that this statement does not feel concrete to me in the way that the Vietnam War does?
Day 4: Mom and I took a taxi to VN’s Chinatown. We had no idea what we were in for! Chinatown was certainly not set up for tourists! Mom and I ended up in Chinatown’s motorbike parts district, I think. We were ogled and stared at like nothing I’ve ever experienced before. It was exciting for us and for the Vietnamese people who may have not seen Americans in their shops before! I saw live fish, pig penius for sale, fish heads, pig brains, live frogs, oh and live chickens, all for sale. Many people did not even get off their motorbikes as their purchased live animals! It was a strange and exciting experience.
Then we headed back to tourist-civilization and hit the spa! What was supposed to be a sixty-minute massage followed by manicures and pedicures turned into a three-hour event! No joke—we were in this spa for over three hours!!!! I can’t complain too much though. : )
Then Mom and I met up with my friend Jules for dinner. After some MORE shopping at the night market, we walked to the area of the city where the young tourists hang out. It was basically a SAS convention, as the local youth spots inevitably end up being in every port. Mom got to meet a lot of my friends at the bar. It was fun and now, Mom, you can pretend you are cool. ; )
Day 5: Sadly, Mom had to catch her flight this morning. After our driver dropped her off at the airport, I headed back to the ship to drop of my luggage. While headed up to the ship, I ran into my friend Madison. She invited me to join her to visit the house where her dad used to live! Her grandfather worked for the government and in the late 1960s their whole family lived in HCMC. We found the house and knocked on the gate. Can you believe it—the woman who answered spoke English! Han invited us into her home, letting Madison take pictures for her father. We saw the entire home! It was incredible and so lucky to yet again be a fly-on-the-wall and see deep inside the home of a traditional Vietnamese family. Han proudly told us she was still single and that is why she still lived at the family home with her aged and yet still lively parents. What fate it was that she answered the knock at the gate; no one else in the household speaks a word of English and probably would have dismissed us immediately! Moments like this, and I seem to have them over and over on this trip, reaffirm my strong belief in fate.
Madison and I were, obviously, giddy, and headed back to the market to spend the rest of our dong before we had to get back on the ship to leave VN. I got some Marc Jacobs Daisy perfume for like $10!!! And I got some Mac makeup and Chanel lip gloss! : DDD
After a few 333 Bias, my personal favorite, I headed back to the ship where I proceed to pass out before 9pm. Saigon wears you out, believe me. Everyone on the ship absolutely loved VN; you can tell because everyone, including me, slept in today until at least noon. Thank goodness we have the day off from classes.
American tends to see Vietnam through the lens of the Vietnam War. But this is a country so much more complex and beautiful and interesting than a country we “bombed back into the Stone Age.” I have a new understanding of Vietnam Veterans and, truly, of America and Americans after visiting this country. Funny how I learn about America once I leave. I don’t think I will ever forget the courage that the Vet I met at the War Museum showed. I can’t imagine wanting to return to a place you were told to destroy, a place that truly, destroyed your entire life. Now, this is a country of technology, speed, and youth. It is a country changed. Vietnam changed America and, truly, it changed me.
Day 1: My friends Katie and Rachael came with me to meet my Mommy at the Rex Hotel. It was so awesome of her to meet me in VN! Our first stop was to the tailor to get measured for a custom dress! I’ll be wearing my coral and champagne colored dress to at the Ambassador’s Ball, the big dance at the end of our voyage. Then we stopped at our hotel, which was outside of the touristy area of HCMC. Our hotel was amazing—more like a bed and breakfast! Trang, the hotel manager, took great care of us with everything from breakfast to tips to calling us drivers to fresh mangos in our hotel room! Then, we hit the market for some SERIOUS shopping. The most ridiculously real fakes in the entire world find their home in Vietnam. I stocked up on Marc Jacobs bags, Louis Vuitton bags, and Northface gear. And, of course, I bought a straw cone hat! That night we went to the infamous Pho 2000 restaurant where Bill Clinton dined when he was reestablishing diplomatic relations with Vietnam in 2000. I love pho!!!!!!!!!
Day 2: Mom and I hit the Cu Chi Tunnels and the Cao Di temple. The temple was bizarre. The religion is like a combination of Christianity, Buddhism and Daoism. Sort of. Then our driver took us to the Cu Chi temples where we saw first hand the underground tunnel system that the Vietcong literally lived in during wars—first with the French and then with the US. These tunnels were so complex and are still standing, at least those tunnels that were not bombed out by US planes. It is no wonder we lost the Vietnam War; our enemy was literally impenetrable. We watched an anti-American propaganda video before touring the tunnels. It was so interesting to see how the current Vietnamese government has transformed what they call the American War from a civil war that the US became involved in, to a war between the Vietnamese and the Americans. Since all of VN is united now, the government likes to paint the image that the country was always united, all banning together against the “cruel and horrible” American soldiers.
That night Mom and I went back to the non-touristy area of HCMC where our hotel was located. We walked around the area and discovered active night-life at the local park. Everything from dance lessons to games to late-night working out to young lovers stealing a moment took place in this beautiful and extensive park. It was a fantastic and unique experience to be flies-on-the-wall in this section of VN—we were literally the only white people in the entire park.
Day 3: The next morning I showed my Mom my home, the MV Explorer. I also loaded her up with souvenirs to take home to alleviate my packing process in December! Then we hit the War Remnants Museum. A lot of the information presented at this museum was anti-American, which I truly appreciate seeing; at least it’s a different perspective! I learned a great deal about Agent Orange, which was the chemical the US planes spread all over VN during the war. Since the Vietcong lived and hid in the deep thickets of the VN jungle, the only way the US planes could successfully kill the VC was by destroying their hideaways. We decided to us the most toxic chemical known the man kind, now referred to as Agent Orange. Our planes sprayed this chemical all over the country, both in the North and the South. The chemical did not just kill plants; it also killed and deformed the humans living amongst these plants. It did not just harm Vietnamese citizens; it also killed and deformed US soldiers who came in close contact to the chemical. Agent Orange stays in one’s DNA for four generations; all over VN one sees deformed and mutilated people who have been affected by Agent Orange. At home in America, we do not like to discuss the horrible deaths and deformities that have been caused by Agent Orange. But both Vietnamese and Americans have been, and still are, affected by Agent Orange.
Anyway, at the War Museum, there were extensive photographs of victims of Agent Orange and other events of the war. Outside the museum sat US military planes and tanks that had just been left in VN once the US pulled out. Mom and I were walking among the tanks when we heard an American voice say, “There it is,” when he saw the biggest tank. We went over to talk to him. He had tears in his eyes as he sat and looked at these huge, overwhelming weapons of mass destruction. We asked him if he was a Vietnam vet, and the woman who was with him told us that he was. She was a therapist who leads a group called Soldier’s Heart. She and her husband lead groups of people, mostly vets, who come face-to-face with their enemies in order to forgive their enemies and themselves. This veteran from Wisconsin was, bravely, returning to VN to heal. It was so powerful to be a part of his healing.
The war may have been years ago, not even in my own lifetime, but here I was, standing in front of this man who was still, to this day, so deeply affected by the things he saw in the country we were both visiting. It is easy, I think, for my generation to forget or dismiss the Vietnam War as part of all the craziness that was the 1970s. But what truly slapped me in the face was the fact that this is not history—this is present. My parents, my teachers, my family, and this veteran, were all, and still are, incredibly affected and changed by the war. America was affected by the war. It was the first war we lost, and the first war where there did not seem to be definitive sides of “good” and “evil.” Vietnam, although they have moved on from the war in terms of their country’s psyche in a way America has not, is still affected by the war. Agent Orange still abounds. Huge craters litter the countryside from bombs. The tunnels still remain. And, of course, the result of the war was that the North took VN; they are a Communist country.
Meeting the veteran was one of the most important and definitive experiences of my life. War is something huge and real; I don’t think I’ve ever experienced anything like that in my life. I write this and feel silly; my country is at war right now, at this very moment. People are dying at the hands of my countrymen in both Iraq and Afghanistan. Why is it that this statement does not feel concrete to me in the way that the Vietnam War does?
Day 4: Mom and I took a taxi to VN’s Chinatown. We had no idea what we were in for! Chinatown was certainly not set up for tourists! Mom and I ended up in Chinatown’s motorbike parts district, I think. We were ogled and stared at like nothing I’ve ever experienced before. It was exciting for us and for the Vietnamese people who may have not seen Americans in their shops before! I saw live fish, pig penius for sale, fish heads, pig brains, live frogs, oh and live chickens, all for sale. Many people did not even get off their motorbikes as their purchased live animals! It was a strange and exciting experience.
Then we headed back to tourist-civilization and hit the spa! What was supposed to be a sixty-minute massage followed by manicures and pedicures turned into a three-hour event! No joke—we were in this spa for over three hours!!!! I can’t complain too much though. : )
Then Mom and I met up with my friend Jules for dinner. After some MORE shopping at the night market, we walked to the area of the city where the young tourists hang out. It was basically a SAS convention, as the local youth spots inevitably end up being in every port. Mom got to meet a lot of my friends at the bar. It was fun and now, Mom, you can pretend you are cool. ; )
Day 5: Sadly, Mom had to catch her flight this morning. After our driver dropped her off at the airport, I headed back to the ship to drop of my luggage. While headed up to the ship, I ran into my friend Madison. She invited me to join her to visit the house where her dad used to live! Her grandfather worked for the government and in the late 1960s their whole family lived in HCMC. We found the house and knocked on the gate. Can you believe it—the woman who answered spoke English! Han invited us into her home, letting Madison take pictures for her father. We saw the entire home! It was incredible and so lucky to yet again be a fly-on-the-wall and see deep inside the home of a traditional Vietnamese family. Han proudly told us she was still single and that is why she still lived at the family home with her aged and yet still lively parents. What fate it was that she answered the knock at the gate; no one else in the household speaks a word of English and probably would have dismissed us immediately! Moments like this, and I seem to have them over and over on this trip, reaffirm my strong belief in fate.
Madison and I were, obviously, giddy, and headed back to the market to spend the rest of our dong before we had to get back on the ship to leave VN. I got some Marc Jacobs Daisy perfume for like $10!!! And I got some Mac makeup and Chanel lip gloss! : DDD
After a few 333 Bias, my personal favorite, I headed back to the ship where I proceed to pass out before 9pm. Saigon wears you out, believe me. Everyone on the ship absolutely loved VN; you can tell because everyone, including me, slept in today until at least noon. Thank goodness we have the day off from classes.
American tends to see Vietnam through the lens of the Vietnam War. But this is a country so much more complex and beautiful and interesting than a country we “bombed back into the Stone Age.” I have a new understanding of Vietnam Veterans and, truly, of America and Americans after visiting this country. Funny how I learn about America once I leave. I don’t think I will ever forget the courage that the Vet I met at the War Museum showed. I can’t imagine wanting to return to a place you were told to destroy, a place that truly, destroyed your entire life. Now, this is a country of technology, speed, and youth. It is a country changed. Vietnam changed America and, truly, it changed me.
Tuesday, October 27, 2009
No Idea About India
So. India.
If you’ve ever been to India, you’ll understand that it is impossible to explain. The thought of completing this blog makes me a little sick to my stomach because I know there is no way I can even come close to giving you all a real taste of this country.
Day 1: Our ship was docked in Southern India, in Chennai. Chennai is the dirtiest place I’ve ever been. Everything is dirty, from the ground under you to the sky above you. Some friends and I went shopping courtesy of a rickshaw. Never ridden in a rickshaw? You should—see how the rest of the world drives. Our driver kept taking us to expensive stores that would give him kick-backs if we bought something. Finally he understood that we were looking for cheap market shops, and he took us to a great store where many of you will be getting gifts from! My friends and I also went to two temples. The Hindu religion is so complicated, ornate, beautiful, strange. I prayed to some cows in an enclosure/altar!
Then, we went out to dinner at a nice vegetarian restaurant where the waiter assured us that the food is “Not Good!” Hmmm… Then our rickshaw drivers said they would take us to a cool hookah bar. Forty-five minutes in a rickshaw later, we were in a residential area where the drivers said we could buy hookah from the man in one of the houses! We wanted a cool bar where we could hang out; they were trying to sell us hookah among other drugs, I’m sure.
Day 2: Well, technically this was still part of Day 1? After dinner in Chennai, I stayed up all night packing for my trip. After no sleep, at 4am, I hopped on the bus for the airport to fly from Chennai to New Delhi in pursuit of the Taj Mahal. I slept through the entire flight, from before we took off until landing. Then, we toured some forts in Delhi before boarding the train for Agra. The train was delayed over 2 hours and due to some sort of confusion we didn’t have seats on the express train. This train ride was almost 5 hours long and was “first class.” I really hope that is enough said because I truly don’t even want to remember that train ride ever again. We got to the hotel a 1am. That day I ate breakfast at 3:30am, lunch at about 2pm, and then had dinner at 1am. Not my favorite day. To say the least.
Day 3: Is this still part of Day 2? I certainly don’t know. After 3 hours of sleep, we woke up to see the sunrise at the Taj Mahal. I don’t think I could or should describe the Taj Mahal. It is not something words, photographs, or films can accurately replicate. Go to the Taj Mahal. Nothing has ever taken my breath away with such magnitude.
After the sunrise, we went to the Red Fort at Agra and then went shopping at a local market. The aggressiveness of the sellers and hawkers in India makes Morocco and Ghana’s street markets sound like a cake walk.
Then, we went back to the Taj for the sunset. Sunrise was better because the Taj was virtually empty. By sunset, it was so crowded one could barely walk. My pictures from the evening are littered with other tourists, from other parts of India and from all over the world.
We took the express train (thank god!) back to New Delhi. Waiting in the train station was the hardest part of the entire trip. We were sitting ducks for beggar children. “Slumdog Millionaire” may not accurately represent a great deal of India, but it sure got it right in its depiction of the beggars. Many had deformities that were obviously self-inflicted. Well, one can hope they chose to have limbs cut off. The truth is, many of those children’s limbs were mutilated in hopes for their parents or guardians or gang-leaders to make more money.
Then, we settled into the nicest hotel I’ve ever stayed in. Flat screen TVs in every room, two queen size beds, huge shower with a seat, etc. If I could have even processed anything at that point, the contrast between the children beggars and my hotel room might have bothered me. But India is so overwhelming, it’s literally impossible to even make connections like that.
Day 4: We left New Delhi for the ship in Chennai, but not before stopping at an amazing Hindu temple. It was built in the 12th century and had been built and re-built as Islam reigned, then various families took over the land. I’ve never been in front of anything as old as these captivating ruins. Our flight was inconsequential, and we finally, finally, finally made it back to the ship.
Day 5: Today I went to an Indian Film studio. India produces more films than any other country in the world, including the USA and China. They know their movies. Still, their cinema is not reputable in film studies outside of India and many of their post production techniques use antiquated technology. I enjoyed our tour and discussions with Indian directors immensely.
Now, I’m back on the ship and we’re about to sail away, headed towards Vietnam. One cannot even begin to grapple India in only six days. I certainly will not pretend to know India. It is a wild beast. I loved it and I hated it. I never want to come back; I need to come back. Maybe in a few days I can better describe my trip. This may just be my least descriptive blog yet, which is ironic because India is the most complex country I’ve been to yet. There’s nothing really to say though except maybe that you all need to see India for yourselves.
If you’ve ever been to India, you’ll understand that it is impossible to explain. The thought of completing this blog makes me a little sick to my stomach because I know there is no way I can even come close to giving you all a real taste of this country.
Day 1: Our ship was docked in Southern India, in Chennai. Chennai is the dirtiest place I’ve ever been. Everything is dirty, from the ground under you to the sky above you. Some friends and I went shopping courtesy of a rickshaw. Never ridden in a rickshaw? You should—see how the rest of the world drives. Our driver kept taking us to expensive stores that would give him kick-backs if we bought something. Finally he understood that we were looking for cheap market shops, and he took us to a great store where many of you will be getting gifts from! My friends and I also went to two temples. The Hindu religion is so complicated, ornate, beautiful, strange. I prayed to some cows in an enclosure/altar!
Then, we went out to dinner at a nice vegetarian restaurant where the waiter assured us that the food is “Not Good!” Hmmm… Then our rickshaw drivers said they would take us to a cool hookah bar. Forty-five minutes in a rickshaw later, we were in a residential area where the drivers said we could buy hookah from the man in one of the houses! We wanted a cool bar where we could hang out; they were trying to sell us hookah among other drugs, I’m sure.
Day 2: Well, technically this was still part of Day 1? After dinner in Chennai, I stayed up all night packing for my trip. After no sleep, at 4am, I hopped on the bus for the airport to fly from Chennai to New Delhi in pursuit of the Taj Mahal. I slept through the entire flight, from before we took off until landing. Then, we toured some forts in Delhi before boarding the train for Agra. The train was delayed over 2 hours and due to some sort of confusion we didn’t have seats on the express train. This train ride was almost 5 hours long and was “first class.” I really hope that is enough said because I truly don’t even want to remember that train ride ever again. We got to the hotel a 1am. That day I ate breakfast at 3:30am, lunch at about 2pm, and then had dinner at 1am. Not my favorite day. To say the least.
Day 3: Is this still part of Day 2? I certainly don’t know. After 3 hours of sleep, we woke up to see the sunrise at the Taj Mahal. I don’t think I could or should describe the Taj Mahal. It is not something words, photographs, or films can accurately replicate. Go to the Taj Mahal. Nothing has ever taken my breath away with such magnitude.
After the sunrise, we went to the Red Fort at Agra and then went shopping at a local market. The aggressiveness of the sellers and hawkers in India makes Morocco and Ghana’s street markets sound like a cake walk.
Then, we went back to the Taj for the sunset. Sunrise was better because the Taj was virtually empty. By sunset, it was so crowded one could barely walk. My pictures from the evening are littered with other tourists, from other parts of India and from all over the world.
We took the express train (thank god!) back to New Delhi. Waiting in the train station was the hardest part of the entire trip. We were sitting ducks for beggar children. “Slumdog Millionaire” may not accurately represent a great deal of India, but it sure got it right in its depiction of the beggars. Many had deformities that were obviously self-inflicted. Well, one can hope they chose to have limbs cut off. The truth is, many of those children’s limbs were mutilated in hopes for their parents or guardians or gang-leaders to make more money.
Then, we settled into the nicest hotel I’ve ever stayed in. Flat screen TVs in every room, two queen size beds, huge shower with a seat, etc. If I could have even processed anything at that point, the contrast between the children beggars and my hotel room might have bothered me. But India is so overwhelming, it’s literally impossible to even make connections like that.
Day 4: We left New Delhi for the ship in Chennai, but not before stopping at an amazing Hindu temple. It was built in the 12th century and had been built and re-built as Islam reigned, then various families took over the land. I’ve never been in front of anything as old as these captivating ruins. Our flight was inconsequential, and we finally, finally, finally made it back to the ship.
Day 5: Today I went to an Indian Film studio. India produces more films than any other country in the world, including the USA and China. They know their movies. Still, their cinema is not reputable in film studies outside of India and many of their post production techniques use antiquated technology. I enjoyed our tour and discussions with Indian directors immensely.
Now, I’m back on the ship and we’re about to sail away, headed towards Vietnam. One cannot even begin to grapple India in only six days. I certainly will not pretend to know India. It is a wild beast. I loved it and I hated it. I never want to come back; I need to come back. Maybe in a few days I can better describe my trip. This may just be my least descriptive blog yet, which is ironic because India is the most complex country I’ve been to yet. There’s nothing really to say though except maybe that you all need to see India for yourselves.
Saturday, October 17, 2009
Update From Mauritius
Just off the Eastern coast of Africa, near Madagascar, lies that country you've never heard of: Mauritius! Mauritius is sort of like the Bahamas of Africa. Resorts, private beaches, villas, and water sports make up for the main activities on the island. No complaints here!
Day 1: We got right off the ship and took the $2 water taxi from the ship to the Waterfront of Port Louis. Mauritius is a weird combination of Africa, India and France, and their "downtown" certainly represented these three cultures' coming together. After some shopping, my friend and I took a taxi from Port Louis, which is in the West of the island, up to the North side of the island, to the beach. I can't even explain how amazing this beach was. There were maybe fifteen other people on the beach. I have had dreams, or more like heavenly fantasies, about beaches like it, and suddenly I was standing with my toes in the sand! We ran into some people from the ship and had some drinks and laid on the beach, the warm Indian Ocean water crashing around us.
My friend and I took the taxi back to ship where we met some more friends and went out to dinner. We ended up at a steakhouse where I ate a much needed hamburger. Then, we went to this fantastic sports bar! It was so perfectly decorated; things like tennis balls in the ground and basketballs for bar stools. Of course, they did not seem to know what American Major League Baseball was and certainly had no idea that it happens to be the playoffs so I didn't get to watch any of the game! Oh well, I still had a great time. How could I not, surrounded by my friends in the bar, standing on a balcony and looking out at the Explorer, docked in the harbor of an African country I literally had not heard of until weeks before we embarked?
Day 2: I got up bright and early to head to the bus for an SAS trip called Blue Safari. We headed for the Northern part of the island to... the exact beach I had been at yesterday! I was back--and so soon. Dreams do come true! ; ) After a delicious chicken sandwich with french fries inside the bun off of a lunch truck, we headed to the dock where we would enter the submarine that would take us under the sea! The pilot joked that we have seen the ocean's surface for so long now on the Explorer that now we of course wanted to see what was underneath it! Five of us got into the submarine. It was completely clear glass so we could see all around us as we descended 30m under the ocean! It was surreal, claustrophobic, exciting, and a little bit scary! As we chugged along the sea floor, I saw so many different kinds of sea life! Most excitingly, an octopus (a very rare sighting on these tours!), an eel, sea cucumbers, and a HUGE sea anenomne! It was so incredibly cool. They gave us these cheesy and awesome certificates at the end that say how far we dove under the water.
My friends and I hit the markets after we re-gained our land-legs. I loved buying souvenirs with the Dodo bird on them. (Mauritius is the only known place in the entire world where Dodos were known to have existed before their untimely extinction!) Later, my friends and I hit the town again, enjoying the great food and the Friday night live music at the sports bar! It was one of my most enjoyable nights out thus far, because I am really starting to know who I want to spend my time with in terms of my ship-friends. Ever since you called them my "ship friends," Ashley Panella, that is the term I most prefer to use!
Day 3: Today may have been one of the best days of my life! We jumped on a catamaran and sailed to an outlying island where the water was blue, the sky was blue, the WHALES that we saw barely a few yards from our boat (!!!!!!!!) were blue, and, I am red. Oh so red. So sunburned. So badly. I even have the dreaded sunglasses tan. Embarrassing. But, seriously, I laid on the catamaran, inches above the water, soaking up the sun (and a lot of it!). Then, we snorkeled! I saw blue-finned tunas, clown fish, angel fish, etc, etc. It was fun and really rekindled my love for snorkeling. I hope to be able to do a lot of it when I get home. I just love being among the sea creatures! Then, on the catamaran, we had a barbaque lunch that was SUPERB. When they brought out coffee and brownies as the dessert, I was 100% sure I had died on gone to heaven. I mean between sunbathing, BBQ chicken for lunch, snorkeling, and being in Africa, when you add in COFFEE, my god!
Mauritius is one of those places that we just don't pay enough attention to. It is incredibly diverse, filled with Indians (mostly Hindu), African people, Creoles, and many more. Mauritius is the epitome of the legacy of colonialism; the country is a strange and exciting mix of aboriginal and European and Indian. Because of its extreme distance from the US, I truly may never return to Mauritius. I would hope to come back to truly explore more. The trip was like a spring break for us voyagers, and I feel like we didn't learn enough about the country to appreciate it on any other level than as a resort island. Think about it, if you were taking a trip to China, you would do a great deal of research before you left. If you were going to the Bahamas, you might go shopping for a new bikini. But, of course, the Bahamas is an individual and intricate country, too, just like, say China! And I certainly didn't research Mauritius, and I did, in fact, buy a new bathing suit in South Africa in preparation for the beach! Hmmm... a lot for me to think about, and I better do it fast--I'll be in India in a few days!
Day 1: We got right off the ship and took the $2 water taxi from the ship to the Waterfront of Port Louis. Mauritius is a weird combination of Africa, India and France, and their "downtown" certainly represented these three cultures' coming together. After some shopping, my friend and I took a taxi from Port Louis, which is in the West of the island, up to the North side of the island, to the beach. I can't even explain how amazing this beach was. There were maybe fifteen other people on the beach. I have had dreams, or more like heavenly fantasies, about beaches like it, and suddenly I was standing with my toes in the sand! We ran into some people from the ship and had some drinks and laid on the beach, the warm Indian Ocean water crashing around us.
My friend and I took the taxi back to ship where we met some more friends and went out to dinner. We ended up at a steakhouse where I ate a much needed hamburger. Then, we went to this fantastic sports bar! It was so perfectly decorated; things like tennis balls in the ground and basketballs for bar stools. Of course, they did not seem to know what American Major League Baseball was and certainly had no idea that it happens to be the playoffs so I didn't get to watch any of the game! Oh well, I still had a great time. How could I not, surrounded by my friends in the bar, standing on a balcony and looking out at the Explorer, docked in the harbor of an African country I literally had not heard of until weeks before we embarked?
Day 2: I got up bright and early to head to the bus for an SAS trip called Blue Safari. We headed for the Northern part of the island to... the exact beach I had been at yesterday! I was back--and so soon. Dreams do come true! ; ) After a delicious chicken sandwich with french fries inside the bun off of a lunch truck, we headed to the dock where we would enter the submarine that would take us under the sea! The pilot joked that we have seen the ocean's surface for so long now on the Explorer that now we of course wanted to see what was underneath it! Five of us got into the submarine. It was completely clear glass so we could see all around us as we descended 30m under the ocean! It was surreal, claustrophobic, exciting, and a little bit scary! As we chugged along the sea floor, I saw so many different kinds of sea life! Most excitingly, an octopus (a very rare sighting on these tours!), an eel, sea cucumbers, and a HUGE sea anenomne! It was so incredibly cool. They gave us these cheesy and awesome certificates at the end that say how far we dove under the water.
My friends and I hit the markets after we re-gained our land-legs. I loved buying souvenirs with the Dodo bird on them. (Mauritius is the only known place in the entire world where Dodos were known to have existed before their untimely extinction!) Later, my friends and I hit the town again, enjoying the great food and the Friday night live music at the sports bar! It was one of my most enjoyable nights out thus far, because I am really starting to know who I want to spend my time with in terms of my ship-friends. Ever since you called them my "ship friends," Ashley Panella, that is the term I most prefer to use!
Day 3: Today may have been one of the best days of my life! We jumped on a catamaran and sailed to an outlying island where the water was blue, the sky was blue, the WHALES that we saw barely a few yards from our boat (!!!!!!!!) were blue, and, I am red. Oh so red. So sunburned. So badly. I even have the dreaded sunglasses tan. Embarrassing. But, seriously, I laid on the catamaran, inches above the water, soaking up the sun (and a lot of it!). Then, we snorkeled! I saw blue-finned tunas, clown fish, angel fish, etc, etc. It was fun and really rekindled my love for snorkeling. I hope to be able to do a lot of it when I get home. I just love being among the sea creatures! Then, on the catamaran, we had a barbaque lunch that was SUPERB. When they brought out coffee and brownies as the dessert, I was 100% sure I had died on gone to heaven. I mean between sunbathing, BBQ chicken for lunch, snorkeling, and being in Africa, when you add in COFFEE, my god!
Mauritius is one of those places that we just don't pay enough attention to. It is incredibly diverse, filled with Indians (mostly Hindu), African people, Creoles, and many more. Mauritius is the epitome of the legacy of colonialism; the country is a strange and exciting mix of aboriginal and European and Indian. Because of its extreme distance from the US, I truly may never return to Mauritius. I would hope to come back to truly explore more. The trip was like a spring break for us voyagers, and I feel like we didn't learn enough about the country to appreciate it on any other level than as a resort island. Think about it, if you were taking a trip to China, you would do a great deal of research before you left. If you were going to the Bahamas, you might go shopping for a new bikini. But, of course, the Bahamas is an individual and intricate country, too, just like, say China! And I certainly didn't research Mauritius, and I did, in fact, buy a new bathing suit in South Africa in preparation for the beach! Hmmm... a lot for me to think about, and I better do it fast--I'll be in India in a few days!
Thursday, October 8, 2009
Getting Down in Cape Town, part II
The next day in Cape Town began at an ungodly hour as we headed to the Aquilla Private Game Reserve for an all-day safari. The reserve was so luxurious, complete with swimming pools, amazing food, and animal decor in the restaurant. After a much needed breakfast, we divided up and got into several game vehicles (open-air 4X4s). On completely rugged and thrilling terrain we rode through the reserve. Although on the longer, overnight safaris many students went on were more "authentic" in that the reserves were huge and the animals were in a more "natural" setting, the animals in Aquilla were all free and in their natural habitats. They just happened to have those habitats in convenient places for our viewing! I saw elephants, giraffes, hippos, springbok, antelope, wildebeest, buffalo, zebras and rhinos! We also had to change to view several lions, although their area was fenced off. If the reserve let the lions roam free, they would eat the other animals that the reserve tries so hard to protect! There was also a pen that held cheetahs, but sadly I didn't get a glimpse of this big cat. Overall, I had the time of my life getting to experience these animals in a safe environment, but without the restrictive and isolating bars of a zoo.
After my safari I, of course, went shopping. It is hard to stay away when a fantastic mall is but a few steps from the exit of the ship! I was so glad to be able to call home for a few minutes from the international pay phones in the mall.
The next day, some friends and I had tickets to go to Robben Island. Unfortunately, it was raining and windy, and we got all the way to Nelson Mandela Gateway, where the ferry to the former prison leaves, only to find out it was canceled due to the weather. Luckily, my friend Rachael and I were able to by tickets for the next day, but some of the other girls in our group were not going to be able to go to Robben Island at all.
So, graced with rain and a change in plans, a few of us decided to head to the Jewish Museum in downtown Cape Town. We took a taxi and explored the Company's Garden (complete with cute little ducks wading in the pond!) before going into the museum. South Africa had a rather large influx of Jewish immigrants in the same way that the United States did, and I personally had no idea about this history. The museum was very well done. It was striking to me to think that many Jews came to South Africa to escape Nazism, only to find that their new home would elect the Nationalist Party in 1948 who deeply sympathized with the Nazi's idea of a pure, superior race of people. Interestingly enough, in South Africa, the Jewish were on the other side of this racism, because instead of being the hated Jew, they were the part of the superior race of the Whites. What a phenomenon to completely switch sides of the same issue by traveling only a few countries over!
Later that day my Rachael and I headed to the movie theater in the mall. We are both in "World Cinema," and we are supposed to see a movie in a foreign country during the semester. We couldn't find a theater playing any South African films, so we ended up seeing the American remake, "Fame." It was fun being back in what I might call my natural habitat, the movie theater (LOL), smelling that familiar popcorn smell, but the movie was pretty much nothing but terrible. After the movie we went out for one last hurrah in Cape Town. The streets and bars were littered with SAS students, as it always seems to be wherever we go. It becomes like "real college" when you go out at night and recognize a lot of your friends and classmates. We don't really get that social part of college, the party scene, on the ship, and our time in port is a weird sort of substitute for that.
Thank goodness the weather was nice today because I was able to go to Robben Island. I'm not quite sure how to describe it in words. This seems to be my biggest problem in my trip so far--relating my experiences in ways others might understand. I have never in my life been witness to anything so powerful as being toured a political prison by an ex-prisoner. Our tour guide blew up a governmental building working for the militant wing of the ANC. No one died and a few military personnel sustained minor injuries, and our guide, at 19, was sentenced to 18 years of incarceration. He was beaten, tortured, and humiliated regularly. He told a story of how when his father applied to visit him (as this was difficult to do), security officers came to his father's home and shot him eight times. To this day our guide's father resides in a wheelchair because of his wish to visit his son. The most sickening part of the whole story was that the very men who tortured and beat the prisoners have been pardoned completely, many running successful private businesses that sell products to their former prisoners. I saw Nelson Mandela's cell, and places in the prison I have only seen in photographs before. It was so important to me to see Robben Island, to experience this dark part of this beautiful country's past. On a lighter note, leaving the prison for the return ferry I saw the penguins of Robben Island that live and play on the beaches of this beautiful island. It was quite and ending to a powerful experience.
Now, we're headed away from Cape Town, on our path to Mauritius. I could stay in South Africa for another week, another month, for a whole year. I know I am coming back here. Walking the streets of Cape Town, I feel a strange sense of connection to this nation. The only other time I have felt such a sense of belonging was when I moved to Santa Barbara. Is it possible to have two cities where your whole being completely and wholly belongs? Can I split my time between Santa Barbara and Cape Town? With the same weather and the most beautiful beaches, respectively, I think I could make a life of it! Now, to prepare for the real world again--tests, midterms, so many papers, reading, and continuing to press onward with Nelson Mandela's autobiography. Truly, though, this is not a bad place to be at all.
After my safari I, of course, went shopping. It is hard to stay away when a fantastic mall is but a few steps from the exit of the ship! I was so glad to be able to call home for a few minutes from the international pay phones in the mall.
The next day, some friends and I had tickets to go to Robben Island. Unfortunately, it was raining and windy, and we got all the way to Nelson Mandela Gateway, where the ferry to the former prison leaves, only to find out it was canceled due to the weather. Luckily, my friend Rachael and I were able to by tickets for the next day, but some of the other girls in our group were not going to be able to go to Robben Island at all.
So, graced with rain and a change in plans, a few of us decided to head to the Jewish Museum in downtown Cape Town. We took a taxi and explored the Company's Garden (complete with cute little ducks wading in the pond!) before going into the museum. South Africa had a rather large influx of Jewish immigrants in the same way that the United States did, and I personally had no idea about this history. The museum was very well done. It was striking to me to think that many Jews came to South Africa to escape Nazism, only to find that their new home would elect the Nationalist Party in 1948 who deeply sympathized with the Nazi's idea of a pure, superior race of people. Interestingly enough, in South Africa, the Jewish were on the other side of this racism, because instead of being the hated Jew, they were the part of the superior race of the Whites. What a phenomenon to completely switch sides of the same issue by traveling only a few countries over!
Later that day my Rachael and I headed to the movie theater in the mall. We are both in "World Cinema," and we are supposed to see a movie in a foreign country during the semester. We couldn't find a theater playing any South African films, so we ended up seeing the American remake, "Fame." It was fun being back in what I might call my natural habitat, the movie theater (LOL), smelling that familiar popcorn smell, but the movie was pretty much nothing but terrible. After the movie we went out for one last hurrah in Cape Town. The streets and bars were littered with SAS students, as it always seems to be wherever we go. It becomes like "real college" when you go out at night and recognize a lot of your friends and classmates. We don't really get that social part of college, the party scene, on the ship, and our time in port is a weird sort of substitute for that.
Thank goodness the weather was nice today because I was able to go to Robben Island. I'm not quite sure how to describe it in words. This seems to be my biggest problem in my trip so far--relating my experiences in ways others might understand. I have never in my life been witness to anything so powerful as being toured a political prison by an ex-prisoner. Our tour guide blew up a governmental building working for the militant wing of the ANC. No one died and a few military personnel sustained minor injuries, and our guide, at 19, was sentenced to 18 years of incarceration. He was beaten, tortured, and humiliated regularly. He told a story of how when his father applied to visit him (as this was difficult to do), security officers came to his father's home and shot him eight times. To this day our guide's father resides in a wheelchair because of his wish to visit his son. The most sickening part of the whole story was that the very men who tortured and beat the prisoners have been pardoned completely, many running successful private businesses that sell products to their former prisoners. I saw Nelson Mandela's cell, and places in the prison I have only seen in photographs before. It was so important to me to see Robben Island, to experience this dark part of this beautiful country's past. On a lighter note, leaving the prison for the return ferry I saw the penguins of Robben Island that live and play on the beaches of this beautiful island. It was quite and ending to a powerful experience.
Now, we're headed away from Cape Town, on our path to Mauritius. I could stay in South Africa for another week, another month, for a whole year. I know I am coming back here. Walking the streets of Cape Town, I feel a strange sense of connection to this nation. The only other time I have felt such a sense of belonging was when I moved to Santa Barbara. Is it possible to have two cities where your whole being completely and wholly belongs? Can I split my time between Santa Barbara and Cape Town? With the same weather and the most beautiful beaches, respectively, I think I could make a life of it! Now, to prepare for the real world again--tests, midterms, so many papers, reading, and continuing to press onward with Nelson Mandela's autobiography. Truly, though, this is not a bad place to be at all.
Monday, October 5, 2009
Getting Down in Cape Town
I know I've said this about every port thus far, but I mean it when I say that I'm moving to South Africa. This is a country that has its problems, to say the least, but I feel so at home here. I have never felt like I belonged anywhere more, except maybe Santa Barbara. Life plan: a home in Santa Barbara, a home in Cape Town?
I still have another three days in Cape Town, but so much has happened already that I figure I better blog about my adventures now before I forget them all as more adventures occur!
Arriving in Cape Town was mind-blowing. I got up at 6am (yikes!) to see the sunrise over Table Mountain. (If you can't picture it, Google it--it is the most beautiful and strange mountain I've ever seen!) Then, after the sunrise, we docked at the V&A Waterfront in Cape Town. It is like a mix of the Victorian Era and Pier 39 in San Francisco. It is not the genuine South Africa, but there is a HUGE mall and after a month without the comforts of home, a mall is FINE by me! : )
After walking around, grocery shopping and running some errands, I hopped on an SAS bus headed for the District Six Museum. District Six was an township that was declared a "white area" during apartheid. This ruling displaced hundreds of thousands of "non-whites." Now, near the area where so many lost their homes, and subsequently part of their culture and part of their lives, stands a beautiful and personal museum where locals have commemorated this tragedy. It was very beautiful. Then, we hit the bus to visit a few Cape Town townships. I don't believe I can quite put into words what it is like to be in a township in South Africa. I can say that although apartheid is over, in some areas, things have barely changed. In the townships there is poverty, crime, severe, severe alcohol abuse, and hopelessness. At an illegal pub, we tried homemade beer made from corn. It looked like milk and we all had to drink from the same giant, metal jug! It was disgusting to say the least, but I don't regret for a minute trying it. When in South Africa, right?
I would just hope that everyone in their lives, if they truly want to be aware of the condition of the people of our world, will visit South Africa and experience, if even for a few hours, as in my case, life in a township. I don't even think many South Africans have experienced township life, especially the white South African population. This fact became strikingly clear when, that same day after the township visit, I hopped on another bus with one of my theater classes to see a play at a local theater company. Suddenly I was thrust into a world of opulence and wealth. And, might I add, this world was mostly white. It was shocking for me, coming from Southern California, where every street corner showcases any given ethnicity at any time. This country is one that is just on the verge of change, of shift, and it is remarkable to experience now what the US went through after our own civil rights movement in the 1960s.
The next day, yesterday, I hiked Table Mountain. What a hike! The vegetation was surreal--Africa looks NOTHING like America! We rode an amazing cable car down the mountain once we reached the summit. The cable car rotated and reminded me of the glass elevator in Willy Wonka and the Chocolate Factory. After the hike (and a shower!), some friends and I took a cab to the Greenpoint Market, which only happens on Sundays. Let's just say I bought a FEW things! After some resting, I hit the town for dinner and some nightlife with a large group. South Africa gets a little scarier after dark, sure, but it also comes alive when the sun goes down.
Today I woke up bright and early to hit Stellenbosch for a day of wine-tasting. Liz and I hired Stephen, a registered tour guide, to tour us around the wine lands. He picked us up from the ship in an Audi (!!!!) and we hit the road! From 9am to 5pm all I did was drink wine, eat food, and taste chocolate. Not a bad life, to say the least! Liz and I splurged on ourselves for this luxury tour and we both agreed it was worth every penny. We learned, first of all, how to do a wine-tasting (LOL), how they make wine in South Africa, and a lot about the different, South African wines. I'm an expert now, of course. After a long, hard day of drinking wine, Liz and I returned to the glorious waterfront mall and did some more shopping! I just can't be stopped here!
Now, I'm off to bed early because I have to be up at 5am for my Safari tomorrow! Wish me luck--I hope to see the "Big Five of South Africa": lion, elephant, cheetah, buffalo, giraffe. Cross your fingers that I see all these animals!
I'll write more when I have more stories to tell! Miss and love everyone!
I still have another three days in Cape Town, but so much has happened already that I figure I better blog about my adventures now before I forget them all as more adventures occur!
Arriving in Cape Town was mind-blowing. I got up at 6am (yikes!) to see the sunrise over Table Mountain. (If you can't picture it, Google it--it is the most beautiful and strange mountain I've ever seen!) Then, after the sunrise, we docked at the V&A Waterfront in Cape Town. It is like a mix of the Victorian Era and Pier 39 in San Francisco. It is not the genuine South Africa, but there is a HUGE mall and after a month without the comforts of home, a mall is FINE by me! : )
After walking around, grocery shopping and running some errands, I hopped on an SAS bus headed for the District Six Museum. District Six was an township that was declared a "white area" during apartheid. This ruling displaced hundreds of thousands of "non-whites." Now, near the area where so many lost their homes, and subsequently part of their culture and part of their lives, stands a beautiful and personal museum where locals have commemorated this tragedy. It was very beautiful. Then, we hit the bus to visit a few Cape Town townships. I don't believe I can quite put into words what it is like to be in a township in South Africa. I can say that although apartheid is over, in some areas, things have barely changed. In the townships there is poverty, crime, severe, severe alcohol abuse, and hopelessness. At an illegal pub, we tried homemade beer made from corn. It looked like milk and we all had to drink from the same giant, metal jug! It was disgusting to say the least, but I don't regret for a minute trying it. When in South Africa, right?
I would just hope that everyone in their lives, if they truly want to be aware of the condition of the people of our world, will visit South Africa and experience, if even for a few hours, as in my case, life in a township. I don't even think many South Africans have experienced township life, especially the white South African population. This fact became strikingly clear when, that same day after the township visit, I hopped on another bus with one of my theater classes to see a play at a local theater company. Suddenly I was thrust into a world of opulence and wealth. And, might I add, this world was mostly white. It was shocking for me, coming from Southern California, where every street corner showcases any given ethnicity at any time. This country is one that is just on the verge of change, of shift, and it is remarkable to experience now what the US went through after our own civil rights movement in the 1960s.
The next day, yesterday, I hiked Table Mountain. What a hike! The vegetation was surreal--Africa looks NOTHING like America! We rode an amazing cable car down the mountain once we reached the summit. The cable car rotated and reminded me of the glass elevator in Willy Wonka and the Chocolate Factory. After the hike (and a shower!), some friends and I took a cab to the Greenpoint Market, which only happens on Sundays. Let's just say I bought a FEW things! After some resting, I hit the town for dinner and some nightlife with a large group. South Africa gets a little scarier after dark, sure, but it also comes alive when the sun goes down.
Today I woke up bright and early to hit Stellenbosch for a day of wine-tasting. Liz and I hired Stephen, a registered tour guide, to tour us around the wine lands. He picked us up from the ship in an Audi (!!!!) and we hit the road! From 9am to 5pm all I did was drink wine, eat food, and taste chocolate. Not a bad life, to say the least! Liz and I splurged on ourselves for this luxury tour and we both agreed it was worth every penny. We learned, first of all, how to do a wine-tasting (LOL), how they make wine in South Africa, and a lot about the different, South African wines. I'm an expert now, of course. After a long, hard day of drinking wine, Liz and I returned to the glorious waterfront mall and did some more shopping! I just can't be stopped here!
Now, I'm off to bed early because I have to be up at 5am for my Safari tomorrow! Wish me luck--I hope to see the "Big Five of South Africa": lion, elephant, cheetah, buffalo, giraffe. Cross your fingers that I see all these animals!
I'll write more when I have more stories to tell! Miss and love everyone!
Saturday, September 26, 2009
The Equator
All ye POLYWOGS be weary because I am no longer among you! Officially, at this moment in time (Saturday, Sept. 26, 2009 at 10:45am) I am a SHELLBACK! This means I have been initiated by the MV Explorer crew because right now I am in the Southern Hemisphere! I crossed the equator! Woo!!!!!! This equatorial celebration is called Neptune Day, and I just spent the last two hours watching people jump in fish guts, kiss a fish, bow to King Neptune (played by our very English Captain, Jeremy), and most of all.... GET THEIR HEADS SHAVED!!!!
Don't worry, I didn't shave my head. But there are tons of guys and GIRLS walking around the ship bald as babies! I kissed a fish though and let's just say it didn't taste like sushi.
So now I am no longer among the polywogs who have never crossed the equator. I am now, and will always be, a shellback!
Don't worry, I didn't shave my head. But there are tons of guys and GIRLS walking around the ship bald as babies! I kissed a fish though and let's just say it didn't taste like sushi.
So now I am no longer among the polywogs who have never crossed the equator. I am now, and will always be, a shellback!
Friday, September 25, 2009
Ghana, how do I love thee? Let me count the ways!
This was Semester at Sea's first time ever (in all their 100 voyages) stopping in Ghana. Not only is our stop in Ghana historic for SAS, but it is also important for Ghana. We are the largest group of Americans EVER to enter Ghana at one time. The entire country seems to know we're here. And they are EXCITED. Ghana sees our voyage as an olive branch connecting the US with their country and they couldn't be more proud. How authentic did this make some of our excursions? Well, its not like they wouldn't know we were tourists--suddenly 900 white people descended on Ghana!
Our ship was docked in Tema, which is an Industrial City. In fact, there is nothing but industry. Nothing. Accra, the city we all thought we would be staying in, was only 18km away but with Ghanaian traffic that usually took about an hour. They had free shuttles from the ship to Accra, but of course those never came when they said they would! I didn't really have a chance to explore the little that there was in Tema, but I did get a lot of time in Accra.
Now, where to begin to describe Ghana? Words will fail. This country is unlike any I have been to or learned about. It was everything I expected and nothing I could've imagined.
Day 1: Bright and early we boarded the buses for a long day in Accra on a city tour. Although I probably spent more time on the bus than actually out of the bus (that Ghanaian traffic!!!), I had a blast! We went to the Nkrumah Memorial Park. Nkrumah was the first president of Ghana upon their independence from the UK in 1957. (On that note, English is the official language of Ghana thanks to that lovely institution called colonization.) Nkrumah was overthrown by rebels, but that apparently is not how Ghana likes to remember their first leader. This park was literally a shrine to the man who would have been 100 years old only but a few days ago. It was a rather new experience for me to see an elected president erected in a gold statue, and I haven't fully processed it internally.
After the park, we went to the "cultural arts center" which is the main drag of shops that have cloth, dresses, masks, drums, etc. I bought a beautiful dress and a really neat tie-dye top. We followed this with lunch at a hotel. I won't even attempt to explain the life-changing experience that is trying your first Ghanaian plantain.
Then, we hit the W.E.B. DuBois center. At 93, DuBois moved from his home in the US to Ghana in a fulfillment of the Back to Africa movement. I am very interested in DuBois' poetry and theory about double consciousness, so this trip to his Ghana home and his grave was rewarding. I plan to read his entire book (as I have previously only read excerpts) "The Souls of Black Folks."
After the city tour, I went to reception for Semester at Sea students and the local university students. It was so much fun to talk, eat, and hang out with Ghanaians my own age! When I told them I was a theater major, they all kept saying I should come back to Ghana to study traditional African theater. Let's just say I am SO not opposed to that idea! I headed straight to bed after this long day.
Day 2: I woke up at 6am (gross!) to, yet again, hop on the bus towards Cape Coast. The group of us visited the Cape Coast and Elmina Castles that once held hundreds of slaves in transit during the Trans-Atlantic Slave Trade. The castles structures were so beautiful--all the more upsetting because of the ugliness those very structures supported. I would hope that everyone got the chance to visit these cites. Walking on the very same stones that have become fossilized with human remains, human waste, and human blood of people forcibly removed from their families and their countries is, well, it is hard to describe. Not overly sentimental, each tour ended with a stop to the gift shop! Since the Obamas had just visited Cape Coast in July, our tour guide proudly shared that he was the very guide who toured our President!
Day 3: At the crack of dawn (again!) we hopped on the bus towards a village outside of Accra and Tema. We thought we would maybe get a tour of the village and perhaps play with some kids for a few hours. But, NO, not in Ghana! In Ghana, a trip to a village means the entire village gathers playing music, dancing, cheering, and marching you around so you can shake hands with all the elders of the tribe! It was amazing, humbling, exciting, and heart-warming. "You are welcome" should be the national slogan. Then at the village, we participated in a traditional naming ceremony! All of us SAS students received African names. Ones first name depends on the day one was born, and I'm not quite sure how they get the second name, but I am not terribly concerned. When they called our name, we received a bracelet of amazing and hand-painting beads, along with a bowl that says our African and Christian names! My African name is Akosua Venunye. If I still remember this name in December, I will be expecting all of you to stop calling me Monica entirely. : )
After the village, we ate lunch at a picturesque hotel on the beach. The food was strange though! It was as if they were attempting to make American food. Let's just say they failed miserably.
Then, we drove to the Shai Hills Reserve where we bouldered through rocks into a cave where insect-eating bats live! It was so cool! There were flies and bat poop everywhere but I was standing among bats (!!!!) and I didn't have many complaints. We also tried to look for some baboons, but it was so hot outside that we only saw a few run by very quickly.
That night, some of my friends and I decided to go out into Accra and see the night life. We went to this fantastic bar that had live jazz and Ghanaian high-life music! After a fun-filled and peaceful and all together safe evening, we hopped in a cab to head toward the ship. That was until we were pulled over by a policeman yielding a machine gun. He accused my friend Vicki and I of not wearing our seat belts. We told him there were no seat belts. He told us to go into the police station, and upon our entering of the station demanded a bribe to be let go. I refused. It may have not been my most intelligent move, but I was livid. Ghana has been the nicest, most genuine country as of yet. The people are so proud of the progress their country has made, and seeing these government officials behaving in such a low and disgusting manner upset me. The people of this wonderful country do not deserve that. Finally, after some arguing with him, I convinced him to come out into the taxi to prove that there were no working seat belts. He just kept saying, "What will you give me? What will I eat?" Finally he believed us that we were not "refusing to wear seat belts," but were simply trying to get home to our ship. He let us go.
My taxi was one of the luckier ones. Everyone who went out into the town who came back late was pulled over and made to pay the police. Rumor has it that one guy was held up by those lovely machine guns they yield and was forced to give over every cent he had. Who knows if that is true, but I wouldn't be surprised.
I refuse to let this one incident damper my experience in Ghana. Corruption is, indeed, everywhere, even in the US. Still, it was not the best experience of my life to say the least. I hope Ghana can start to pay their policemen working salaries so that they can sustain themselves and not bribe people. Apparently, this happens all the time, though, and not just to tourists. Locals we told about it were not in the least bit surprised.
Day 4: Today I tried to put the end of last night behind me, because I still am resolute in my love for Ghana, and I went into Accra. We went to this store called "Global Mamas" (look it up--they have a website!). It is an NGO non-profit that helps women learn job skills, gain income and confidence by employing and training them. The products this little shop sells are the products of these women's labor. Let's just say I spent an insane amount of GhanaCedi (Ghanaian money) in Global Mamas! And don't be surprised if you end up with a gift from this amazing, wonderful, inspiring store.
After lunch at an awesome and upscale restaurant, I spent my last Cedi and headed for the ship!
My roommate Kelsey has a very high fever, so I've been taking care of her all this evening. Sickness goes around so easily when traveling and living in a contained environment all at the same time.
I know this entry was long and rather insufficient in explaining fully the country of Ghana. I would like to end here by saying, come to Ghana. You will love it. As the locals say, "I Love Ghana!"
Our ship was docked in Tema, which is an Industrial City. In fact, there is nothing but industry. Nothing. Accra, the city we all thought we would be staying in, was only 18km away but with Ghanaian traffic that usually took about an hour. They had free shuttles from the ship to Accra, but of course those never came when they said they would! I didn't really have a chance to explore the little that there was in Tema, but I did get a lot of time in Accra.
Now, where to begin to describe Ghana? Words will fail. This country is unlike any I have been to or learned about. It was everything I expected and nothing I could've imagined.
Day 1: Bright and early we boarded the buses for a long day in Accra on a city tour. Although I probably spent more time on the bus than actually out of the bus (that Ghanaian traffic!!!), I had a blast! We went to the Nkrumah Memorial Park. Nkrumah was the first president of Ghana upon their independence from the UK in 1957. (On that note, English is the official language of Ghana thanks to that lovely institution called colonization.) Nkrumah was overthrown by rebels, but that apparently is not how Ghana likes to remember their first leader. This park was literally a shrine to the man who would have been 100 years old only but a few days ago. It was a rather new experience for me to see an elected president erected in a gold statue, and I haven't fully processed it internally.
After the park, we went to the "cultural arts center" which is the main drag of shops that have cloth, dresses, masks, drums, etc. I bought a beautiful dress and a really neat tie-dye top. We followed this with lunch at a hotel. I won't even attempt to explain the life-changing experience that is trying your first Ghanaian plantain.
Then, we hit the W.E.B. DuBois center. At 93, DuBois moved from his home in the US to Ghana in a fulfillment of the Back to Africa movement. I am very interested in DuBois' poetry and theory about double consciousness, so this trip to his Ghana home and his grave was rewarding. I plan to read his entire book (as I have previously only read excerpts) "The Souls of Black Folks."
After the city tour, I went to reception for Semester at Sea students and the local university students. It was so much fun to talk, eat, and hang out with Ghanaians my own age! When I told them I was a theater major, they all kept saying I should come back to Ghana to study traditional African theater. Let's just say I am SO not opposed to that idea! I headed straight to bed after this long day.
Day 2: I woke up at 6am (gross!) to, yet again, hop on the bus towards Cape Coast. The group of us visited the Cape Coast and Elmina Castles that once held hundreds of slaves in transit during the Trans-Atlantic Slave Trade. The castles structures were so beautiful--all the more upsetting because of the ugliness those very structures supported. I would hope that everyone got the chance to visit these cites. Walking on the very same stones that have become fossilized with human remains, human waste, and human blood of people forcibly removed from their families and their countries is, well, it is hard to describe. Not overly sentimental, each tour ended with a stop to the gift shop! Since the Obamas had just visited Cape Coast in July, our tour guide proudly shared that he was the very guide who toured our President!
Day 3: At the crack of dawn (again!) we hopped on the bus towards a village outside of Accra and Tema. We thought we would maybe get a tour of the village and perhaps play with some kids for a few hours. But, NO, not in Ghana! In Ghana, a trip to a village means the entire village gathers playing music, dancing, cheering, and marching you around so you can shake hands with all the elders of the tribe! It was amazing, humbling, exciting, and heart-warming. "You are welcome" should be the national slogan. Then at the village, we participated in a traditional naming ceremony! All of us SAS students received African names. Ones first name depends on the day one was born, and I'm not quite sure how they get the second name, but I am not terribly concerned. When they called our name, we received a bracelet of amazing and hand-painting beads, along with a bowl that says our African and Christian names! My African name is Akosua Venunye. If I still remember this name in December, I will be expecting all of you to stop calling me Monica entirely. : )
After the village, we ate lunch at a picturesque hotel on the beach. The food was strange though! It was as if they were attempting to make American food. Let's just say they failed miserably.
Then, we drove to the Shai Hills Reserve where we bouldered through rocks into a cave where insect-eating bats live! It was so cool! There were flies and bat poop everywhere but I was standing among bats (!!!!) and I didn't have many complaints. We also tried to look for some baboons, but it was so hot outside that we only saw a few run by very quickly.
That night, some of my friends and I decided to go out into Accra and see the night life. We went to this fantastic bar that had live jazz and Ghanaian high-life music! After a fun-filled and peaceful and all together safe evening, we hopped in a cab to head toward the ship. That was until we were pulled over by a policeman yielding a machine gun. He accused my friend Vicki and I of not wearing our seat belts. We told him there were no seat belts. He told us to go into the police station, and upon our entering of the station demanded a bribe to be let go. I refused. It may have not been my most intelligent move, but I was livid. Ghana has been the nicest, most genuine country as of yet. The people are so proud of the progress their country has made, and seeing these government officials behaving in such a low and disgusting manner upset me. The people of this wonderful country do not deserve that. Finally, after some arguing with him, I convinced him to come out into the taxi to prove that there were no working seat belts. He just kept saying, "What will you give me? What will I eat?" Finally he believed us that we were not "refusing to wear seat belts," but were simply trying to get home to our ship. He let us go.
My taxi was one of the luckier ones. Everyone who went out into the town who came back late was pulled over and made to pay the police. Rumor has it that one guy was held up by those lovely machine guns they yield and was forced to give over every cent he had. Who knows if that is true, but I wouldn't be surprised.
I refuse to let this one incident damper my experience in Ghana. Corruption is, indeed, everywhere, even in the US. Still, it was not the best experience of my life to say the least. I hope Ghana can start to pay their policemen working salaries so that they can sustain themselves and not bribe people. Apparently, this happens all the time, though, and not just to tourists. Locals we told about it were not in the least bit surprised.
Day 4: Today I tried to put the end of last night behind me, because I still am resolute in my love for Ghana, and I went into Accra. We went to this store called "Global Mamas" (look it up--they have a website!). It is an NGO non-profit that helps women learn job skills, gain income and confidence by employing and training them. The products this little shop sells are the products of these women's labor. Let's just say I spent an insane amount of GhanaCedi (Ghanaian money) in Global Mamas! And don't be surprised if you end up with a gift from this amazing, wonderful, inspiring store.
After lunch at an awesome and upscale restaurant, I spent my last Cedi and headed for the ship!
My roommate Kelsey has a very high fever, so I've been taking care of her all this evening. Sickness goes around so easily when traveling and living in a contained environment all at the same time.
I know this entry was long and rather insufficient in explaining fully the country of Ghana. I would like to end here by saying, come to Ghana. You will love it. As the locals say, "I Love Ghana!"
Tuesday, September 22, 2009
Ghanian Greetings from a Whale
OMG! I'm just casually eating my breakfast, watching the tip of Ghana begin to appear on the horizon, when two WHALES start doing flips right by the boat! It was the coolest thing I've seen so far! Everyone was freaking out and ran to the side of the boat to see these beautiful creatures play. There so playful and majestic and beautiful! Wow! I've never seen whales in the wild like that! Talk about a welcome to Ghana.
In a few hours, after freaking out some more about how cool the whales were, I will be off to a city tour of Accra, Ghana. I'll be visiting the W.E.B. Dubois center, which is something I am so very very excited about. Dubois and his wife are buried there. Then, I be dropped off at for a "Welcome Reception" where I will dine and chat with local Ghanian university students! So excited! Not to use the same word over and over and over, but I am so freaking excited!
More soon! : )
In a few hours, after freaking out some more about how cool the whales were, I will be off to a city tour of Accra, Ghana. I'll be visiting the W.E.B. Dubois center, which is something I am so very very excited about. Dubois and his wife are buried there. Then, I be dropped off at for a "Welcome Reception" where I will dine and chat with local Ghanian university students! So excited! Not to use the same word over and over and over, but I am so freaking excited!
More soon! : )
Thursday, September 17, 2009
Today
Today has been a day of sights! I started off my day with some light rain around 7am, followed by a dolphin sighting just before my class started at noon! They were very tiny dolphins and they were swimming right up to the ship! It was so fantastic; I saw their whole bodies in the water! Then, I saw beautiful sun while I laid out on the top deck, catching some rays. And, just a few minutes ago (it's about 9pm) I went out with the Astronomy professor to star-gaze and we could see Jupiter!
I'm getting excited for Ghana; it is only a few days away! Even though we were in Africa in Morocco, in my Western, Lion-King-educated mind, Ghana feels like the REAL Africa to me. I can't wait to load up on Kente cloth for our apartment!
Even though my birthday was a week ago, my friends surprised me today by ordering me a birthday cake from the cafeteria! It was so kind of them! And of course delicious--it was chocolate!
Talk to you soon, probably after Ghana... I'm sure by then I'll have some wild tales to share!
I'm getting excited for Ghana; it is only a few days away! Even though we were in Africa in Morocco, in my Western, Lion-King-educated mind, Ghana feels like the REAL Africa to me. I can't wait to load up on Kente cloth for our apartment!
Even though my birthday was a week ago, my friends surprised me today by ordering me a birthday cake from the cafeteria! It was so kind of them! And of course delicious--it was chocolate!
Talk to you soon, probably after Ghana... I'm sure by then I'll have some wild tales to share!
Monday, September 14, 2009
Ridin' the Marrakech Express
Morocco, it has been said, is a country of contradictions. That is the best way I can describe this strange, uncomfortable, dirty, beautiful, and somehow altogether welcoming country. I had some great, almost magical times during the five days I've been here. I've also had moments of sheer despair when this country's imbalances and oppression seem to slap me in the face. In the city, it is all greed and dirt, poverty next to excess. In the Berber villages (the Berber are the indigenous people of Morocco) it is all mud, hard work, and simple pleasures, if any at all. Perhaps this long-winded account of my time here will help you better understand this unsettling place.
Day 1: We docked in Casablanca, Morocco at 8am. The port area is DISGUSTING. We're a fifteen minute walk from the exit gates of the port! They have free shuttles for us, but they never come when they say they will, of course, so basically you just walk through a dangerous and confusing African port that smells like sewage because, hey, that's what it is!
But anyway, aside from Semester at Sea's poor choice in berth location, that morning I left immediately for my overnight trip with SAS. We took the Marrakech Express from Casablanca to Marrakech which took about 4 hours. We were in "first class." Then, we had the afternoon to explore the tourist capital of Morocco. It was amazing! Google "Morocco souks" to get an idea of these market places. There were snake charmers, henna artists, beggars, shops that sold bags, shoes, clothes, hookas, orange juice (which apparently is big here?), pottery, jewelry, scarves and so much more. The shop owners are aggressive in a way that I have never known. I was literally grabbed and thrown into stores against my will, forced to look at their products! Not that I'm complaining too much, I left with a TON of stuff, including pink leather flats that everyone in Morocco wears, some presents (!!), some jewelry, oh there was so much I can't even remember right now!
Then we went to this horrid tourist trap called "Chez Ali." It was like the Disneyland of Morocco, only they weren't being forced to smile so they all looked miserable. They looked miserable because they were miserable. Clearly underpaid and possibly forced to work there, they sang and danced in traditional Moroccan styles. They also had a horse show. The horses were clearly being abused and it was literally painful to watch. Returning from Chez Ali, I was at first upset and confused as to why Semester at Sea would send us to this horrible, uneducational, and downright disgusting place. But, as time went on, I started to understand that this horrid mistreatment of the Moroccan culture was, perhaps, part of the overall Moroccan culture. They have to exploit their traditions for tourism. This country is run down and without resources.
We stayed in a lovely hotel in Marrakech that night, which almost made up for the crappy evening at Chez Ali. My roommate for the night and I watched Moroccan music videos on our room tv!
Day 2: Mohammed, our tour guide, woke us up to get started on our hike up the High Atlas Mountains! We were a group of 20, and everyone was really eager to experience the "real" Morocco. We took a bus to a starting point on the mountains and began our hike! We hiked for about 5 hours that first day, passing plains straight out of The Lion King, rocks and sand like no color I've ever seen, and breathing the clean mountain air. Traveling with the 20 in our group was our travel guide as well as the mule-men, who tended to the mules that came with us to carry our baggage! Ah, the smell of mule in the morning... and afternoon... and evening... and all night....
We finally reached our destination, which was a village gite, which is the Moroccan word for "guest house." Children of the village greeted us with unconditional love. It was fantastic and fun and moving and overwhelming. One of the girls, Fatima, was 11 and spoke English, Arabic, French, and the local Berber dialect. She was incredibly sweet and gifted. The kids showed us their school and their village. Then we ate dinner in our gite, followed by music by the men of the village! The little girls were all such good dancers and put us all to shame! Two of the girls wanted to braid my hair, but had trouble with it because it is such a different texture than theirs. They ended up just playing with my hair for about an hour while their mother gave me a henna tattoo! They were the most open and welcoming people I've ever come into contact with, and most of them didn't even speak enough English to allow communication! The hospitality more than made up for the lack of a toilet with a seat, the fact that the electricity went out just as we sat down for dinner and didn't ever get fixed, and the beds... or should I say mats. The "showers" were interesting. They're called "hamans," or steam baths, but they certainly aren't like our steams baths in the US! Let me describe it: the haman is a room with one basin of hot water and one faucet of cold water and on the floor there were several basins. Five people go in at a time and if you want to get rinsed at all, you basically have to bathe each other! Some people were super uncomfortable, but I kept urging everyone, "When in Morocco!" So I, along with 4 other girls, were the first to try out this "shower" and I couldn't have been happier with my bravery! It was so relaxing and in a weird way it sort of released me from any remaining connection to civilization. And, of course, it made me grow really close to the other people in my group! It was an experience to say the least!
I slept pretty well that night, except for my... ahem... rude awakening at 3am and then again at 4am by the call to prayer. It is Ramadan right now, and since 99.9% of Morocco practices Islam, the call to prayer (which, I think, cites verses from the Koran) is blasted by loud speaker into each and every village, no matter how remote. So much for religious freedom--Islam is with you in a village even when running water is not. Still, it was pretty hilarious to shoot up from slumber twice by the screeching of Arabic song! Well, maybe hilarious is not the word....
Day 3: Mohammed woke us to warm bread with fresh fig jam. Indescribably fantastic. Then, we hiked. And I mean hiked. Four hours completely uphill, starting from 8 in the morning! Then, we stopped in a village because we needed a break. A woman had us for tea and nuts. I don't think I could've gone on without some of that mouth-watering Moroccan tea and the amazing and fresh sugar-coated nuts. Well, after our break we trekked on, still almost completely uphill. Finally we stopped for lunch and everyone took a nap. About 7 hours from our starting point that morning, we finally made it to our gite for the night. This gite made the one from the last night look like a palace! Can I describe this dwelling in words? I certainly tried to through pictures, but even photographic evidence could not capture the essence of these Berber's homes. We finally hit the village, greeted by the village's manure storage area. And by storage area, I mean pile. Literally. Oh, and, of course, next to the manure pile was the village's trash pile. Amidst these piles were all sorts of lovely creatures, most noticeably flies and chickens.... Yum. They had a "toilet," which was a ceramic hole in the ground, but without running water, the hole was full and never went down. So lets just say using the restroom was something you did outside, next to the manure pile, which smelled a lot better than that bathroom.
There were children at this village too, but they didn't speak any English and weren't as friendly. The food wasn't as good and the beds were, somehow, impossibly, worse than the beds from the night before. I slept near the window in the girls bedroom because, as I mentioned, smelling the outside (manure and trash) was better than the inside (a toilet without running water).
Day 4: We woke up and walked down a bit to get to the vans that were going to take our group to the train station so we could return to the ship. This little walked turned into a hike because the drivers got lost and we had to keep going along the trail until we got to them! It had rained and many of the roads were closed and, I guess, this made for some confusion for the van-drivers. Oh, Morocco. We did get to the train station and rode the Marrakech Express back to Casablanca. I smelled SO bad. I'm not kidding. Donkey, rained-on mud, sweat, manure, Morocco in general, and dank train cars. Mixed together. In the Casablanca humidity. Kelsey almost gagged when I came home to our cabin. She immediately let me into the shower, though!
After I showered and became human again, we went to Rick's Cafe, modeled after the cafe in the classic movie, "Casablanca." It was cheesy, tacky, and incredibly fun. I went to bed early, so thankful for a toilet, water I could drink, a pillow, a blanket that was bug and twig free, and, most of all, a real shower.
Day 5: Today, I'm still sore from hiking, but, of course, I didn't let that inhibit my adventuring. I went to a lecture on Moroccan hip-hop culture that was given by the queen of Moroccan hip-hop herself, a young female rapper named Fati (spelling?). Check it out at www.ilovehiphopmorocco.com.
Then, I explored Casablanca for the first time, really. I have to say, I'm not a huge fan. All the negative things I had heard were true. It was dirty, uneventful, and did I mention is was dirty? I bought some stamps for a few postcards and spent the remainder of my Moroccan currency.
Let's just say its good to be back on the boat, albeit for a week, headed towards Accra, Ghana.
Day 1: We docked in Casablanca, Morocco at 8am. The port area is DISGUSTING. We're a fifteen minute walk from the exit gates of the port! They have free shuttles for us, but they never come when they say they will, of course, so basically you just walk through a dangerous and confusing African port that smells like sewage because, hey, that's what it is!
But anyway, aside from Semester at Sea's poor choice in berth location, that morning I left immediately for my overnight trip with SAS. We took the Marrakech Express from Casablanca to Marrakech which took about 4 hours. We were in "first class." Then, we had the afternoon to explore the tourist capital of Morocco. It was amazing! Google "Morocco souks" to get an idea of these market places. There were snake charmers, henna artists, beggars, shops that sold bags, shoes, clothes, hookas, orange juice (which apparently is big here?), pottery, jewelry, scarves and so much more. The shop owners are aggressive in a way that I have never known. I was literally grabbed and thrown into stores against my will, forced to look at their products! Not that I'm complaining too much, I left with a TON of stuff, including pink leather flats that everyone in Morocco wears, some presents (!!), some jewelry, oh there was so much I can't even remember right now!
Then we went to this horrid tourist trap called "Chez Ali." It was like the Disneyland of Morocco, only they weren't being forced to smile so they all looked miserable. They looked miserable because they were miserable. Clearly underpaid and possibly forced to work there, they sang and danced in traditional Moroccan styles. They also had a horse show. The horses were clearly being abused and it was literally painful to watch. Returning from Chez Ali, I was at first upset and confused as to why Semester at Sea would send us to this horrible, uneducational, and downright disgusting place. But, as time went on, I started to understand that this horrid mistreatment of the Moroccan culture was, perhaps, part of the overall Moroccan culture. They have to exploit their traditions for tourism. This country is run down and without resources.
We stayed in a lovely hotel in Marrakech that night, which almost made up for the crappy evening at Chez Ali. My roommate for the night and I watched Moroccan music videos on our room tv!
Day 2: Mohammed, our tour guide, woke us up to get started on our hike up the High Atlas Mountains! We were a group of 20, and everyone was really eager to experience the "real" Morocco. We took a bus to a starting point on the mountains and began our hike! We hiked for about 5 hours that first day, passing plains straight out of The Lion King, rocks and sand like no color I've ever seen, and breathing the clean mountain air. Traveling with the 20 in our group was our travel guide as well as the mule-men, who tended to the mules that came with us to carry our baggage! Ah, the smell of mule in the morning... and afternoon... and evening... and all night....
We finally reached our destination, which was a village gite, which is the Moroccan word for "guest house." Children of the village greeted us with unconditional love. It was fantastic and fun and moving and overwhelming. One of the girls, Fatima, was 11 and spoke English, Arabic, French, and the local Berber dialect. She was incredibly sweet and gifted. The kids showed us their school and their village. Then we ate dinner in our gite, followed by music by the men of the village! The little girls were all such good dancers and put us all to shame! Two of the girls wanted to braid my hair, but had trouble with it because it is such a different texture than theirs. They ended up just playing with my hair for about an hour while their mother gave me a henna tattoo! They were the most open and welcoming people I've ever come into contact with, and most of them didn't even speak enough English to allow communication! The hospitality more than made up for the lack of a toilet with a seat, the fact that the electricity went out just as we sat down for dinner and didn't ever get fixed, and the beds... or should I say mats. The "showers" were interesting. They're called "hamans," or steam baths, but they certainly aren't like our steams baths in the US! Let me describe it: the haman is a room with one basin of hot water and one faucet of cold water and on the floor there were several basins. Five people go in at a time and if you want to get rinsed at all, you basically have to bathe each other! Some people were super uncomfortable, but I kept urging everyone, "When in Morocco!" So I, along with 4 other girls, were the first to try out this "shower" and I couldn't have been happier with my bravery! It was so relaxing and in a weird way it sort of released me from any remaining connection to civilization. And, of course, it made me grow really close to the other people in my group! It was an experience to say the least!
I slept pretty well that night, except for my... ahem... rude awakening at 3am and then again at 4am by the call to prayer. It is Ramadan right now, and since 99.9% of Morocco practices Islam, the call to prayer (which, I think, cites verses from the Koran) is blasted by loud speaker into each and every village, no matter how remote. So much for religious freedom--Islam is with you in a village even when running water is not. Still, it was pretty hilarious to shoot up from slumber twice by the screeching of Arabic song! Well, maybe hilarious is not the word....
Day 3: Mohammed woke us to warm bread with fresh fig jam. Indescribably fantastic. Then, we hiked. And I mean hiked. Four hours completely uphill, starting from 8 in the morning! Then, we stopped in a village because we needed a break. A woman had us for tea and nuts. I don't think I could've gone on without some of that mouth-watering Moroccan tea and the amazing and fresh sugar-coated nuts. Well, after our break we trekked on, still almost completely uphill. Finally we stopped for lunch and everyone took a nap. About 7 hours from our starting point that morning, we finally made it to our gite for the night. This gite made the one from the last night look like a palace! Can I describe this dwelling in words? I certainly tried to through pictures, but even photographic evidence could not capture the essence of these Berber's homes. We finally hit the village, greeted by the village's manure storage area. And by storage area, I mean pile. Literally. Oh, and, of course, next to the manure pile was the village's trash pile. Amidst these piles were all sorts of lovely creatures, most noticeably flies and chickens.... Yum. They had a "toilet," which was a ceramic hole in the ground, but without running water, the hole was full and never went down. So lets just say using the restroom was something you did outside, next to the manure pile, which smelled a lot better than that bathroom.
There were children at this village too, but they didn't speak any English and weren't as friendly. The food wasn't as good and the beds were, somehow, impossibly, worse than the beds from the night before. I slept near the window in the girls bedroom because, as I mentioned, smelling the outside (manure and trash) was better than the inside (a toilet without running water).
Day 4: We woke up and walked down a bit to get to the vans that were going to take our group to the train station so we could return to the ship. This little walked turned into a hike because the drivers got lost and we had to keep going along the trail until we got to them! It had rained and many of the roads were closed and, I guess, this made for some confusion for the van-drivers. Oh, Morocco. We did get to the train station and rode the Marrakech Express back to Casablanca. I smelled SO bad. I'm not kidding. Donkey, rained-on mud, sweat, manure, Morocco in general, and dank train cars. Mixed together. In the Casablanca humidity. Kelsey almost gagged when I came home to our cabin. She immediately let me into the shower, though!
After I showered and became human again, we went to Rick's Cafe, modeled after the cafe in the classic movie, "Casablanca." It was cheesy, tacky, and incredibly fun. I went to bed early, so thankful for a toilet, water I could drink, a pillow, a blanket that was bug and twig free, and, most of all, a real shower.
Day 5: Today, I'm still sore from hiking, but, of course, I didn't let that inhibit my adventuring. I went to a lecture on Moroccan hip-hop culture that was given by the queen of Moroccan hip-hop herself, a young female rapper named Fati (spelling?). Check it out at www.ilovehiphopmorocco.com.
Then, I explored Casablanca for the first time, really. I have to say, I'm not a huge fan. All the negative things I had heard were true. It was dirty, uneventful, and did I mention is was dirty? I bought some stamps for a few postcards and spent the remainder of my Moroccan currency.
Let's just say its good to be back on the boat, albeit for a week, headed towards Accra, Ghana.
Tuesday, September 8, 2009
Spain, Losses, and Musings
I'm on the ship now, and we take off for Morocco in a few hours. We'll be in Casablanca in less than 2 days! I'm excited but nervous for this vastly different country.
Anyway....
The Top Ten Reasons I Love Spain:
1. The food! I've eaten seafood paella, the world famous (and rightly so) ham of Southern Spain, tapas, tapas, y tapas, the best ice cream and sweets, Mexican food (LOL) that was fantastic, and even more tapas, and SEAFOOD!!!
2. Sevilla. Me encanta Sevilla! It's about 2 hours out of Cadiz (where our boat was docked) and Kelsey, me, and some other girls rode the train there yesterday for about $20. While Cadiz is amazing and quaint, Sevilla is beyond words in beauty, shopping, and culture! I want to live there! I took a picture outside of a house for sale, so hey, you never know! Kelsey and I went into the famous Catherdal in Sevilla. It used to be a mosque, but when the Christians came, they destroyed all the Muslim relics, replacing them with their own. The current result is a Moorish structure with Christian artwork. It is unlike anything else I've seen. It is the home of Christopher Columbus' tomb, which was something to see. We bought a lot of stuff in Sevilla! I bought a wrap at H&M (lol) that will be a great head covering or shoulder covering for countries where I need to be more modest, like Morocco and India. In Spain a lot of women wear these pants that are reminiscent of Aladdin; they're flowly and puff out at the bottom. Well, for only 4,50 euros, I bought a pair! They are rather silly, but they are really really thin and will be great for the humid countries! Okay, but the best thing I bought in Sevilla was at a Borders-like store. I couldn't escape Europe without buying, of course, a DVD! I bought "El Graduado," which is the Spanish-dubbed "Graduate!" (I know what you're thinking, Megan and Ashley, will the obsession with "The Graduate" ever stop?!?!) It is my most awesome souvenir as of yet. We ate great food in Sevilla too. The best part was how many times we got lost in the University of Sevilla. We seemed to keep being forced to enter its grounds, only to come out the wrong end, surrounded by students going in all directions! The line of the day was, "Donde Estamos?" which means "Where are we?" When we asked locals that, they usually laughed at us and gladly showed us the way! Sevilla was a fantastic day trip!
3. The people. They come off stern and cold when you pass by the Spanish on the streets, but the second you ask for directions, or try to speak Spanish, or just talk to them, they turn from stern and cold to excitable and warm, playful and wild. They are so fun to hear and to be around. And they sleep all day and party all night! Which leads me on with my list....
4. Siesta. Siesta is Spanish for "nap." At 2pm, everyday, day in and day out, all Spaniards take a siesta. They close their shops, restaurants, and offices, and take a THREE HOUR lunch/nap break until 5pm. This may seem very odd to us Americans, being so obsessed with proficiency and speed. But no, in Spain, you sleep until 9am, open your shop at 10am, close from 2pm-5pm, and open again at 5pm, staying open until 11pm or midnight! All the Spanish stay out all night! The restaurants and bars don't even start serving dinner until 8pm or 9pm, and they all close at 6am!!! No joke! At 1am, there will still be little little kids out with their parents. The parents will be drinking and smoking cigarettes and the kids will be petting pigeons! It is actually pretty funny, because in America, family life is so different. But I guess when you sleep for 3 hours during the day, you can stay out later?
5. The history. The newest buildings in Cadiz seem to be from, you know, the 1700s. The forts that protected the city from Napoleon are still up, as well as the old wall that surrounded the city. It is so humbling to stand on cobblestones that thousands of years and even more feet have seen.
6. The Roman Ruins. Did any of you know that the Romans came into Spain?! I guess I should've known that, but I certainly was surprised to find Roman ruins all over Espana! I saw an old Roman theater, to name one structure. In Cadiz, the Romans were welcomed, as the Cadizians had been ravaged by other invaders, and thought Cesar would give them a hand! He did, and all people of Cadiz were given the privileges allowed to the Romans, including citizenship! I learned all of this on my trip to Gibraltar, thanks to my amazing tour guide, Maria-Carmen.
7. The beaches. Cadiz has the most beautiful beaches I've ever seen. The softest, whitest sand and the bluest, clearest waters, surrounded by beautiful jagged rocks, and flanked by old forts from I don't even know how long ago. At one beach in Cadiz, they have little huts that sell tapas and drinks during the late nights! So awesome to eat and drink in a hut on the beach of Spain! Down in that area they also had little huts that sold bracelets that I could've bought in Venice Beach, CA. LOL
8. One the second night, we went to the aforementioned beach area to shop and hang out, we ended up going to the only restaurant with seats open, which was a Mexican place! But, the food was sooo amazing and, most excitingly, the waitress spoke English! She loved us and kept bringing us free drinks! It was so much fun!
9. I love everything about Spain.
10. Tapas.
The Top Ten Things that SUCKED in Spain:
1. Wearing a money belt under my clothes. Uncomfortable, sweaty, and hard to use. I guess it is better than getting something stolen... maybe...
2. On the first day, I lost 20 euros.
3. On the third day, when we were in Sevilla, it was 10pm and we were getting ready to board the last bus home to our ship in Cadiz. We bought our bus tickets that morning so that if we ran out of money shopping (which we did) we would at least be able to get home. Well, at least we thought. As we start to board the bus, I realize I don't have my bus ticket. And the ticket teller refused to help me and just yelled at me in Spanish. Luckily, the bus driver believed me and my friends and let me on without a ticket.
4. On said bus ride home, I realized I had a horrible heat rash all over my legs. Lovely.
5. Oh yeah, then, this morning, I lost my debit card and my ID. (Don't worry, Mom canceled my card.)
Currently? Awaiting for embarkation towards Morocco and musing over traveling as a whole. When traveling, one risks so much--loosing luggage, passports, DEBIT CARDS, MONEY, BUS TICKETS, plane tickets, and valuable items. One risks being afraid and confused and yelled at because of language and cultural barriers. One risks missing the familiar. Missing it a lot. But then, one sees the Rock of Gibraltar and Sevilla, buys Aladdin pants and El Graduado, eats the best food in the world, and gets blasted by the Andalusian wind. It is easy to say the risks are worth it when standing in front of the oldest building in Europe (from, like, 900 AD?!), but not so easy when you are trying to buy lotion for your heat rash and you realize, as the cashier yells at you in a language you barely understand, that your debit card is missing. I'm trying to take the mistakes I've already made in Spain with me to the other ports I'm headed so as to not make silly mistakes anywhere else (especially since the other ports will be more dangerous and foreign to me than Spain has been).
I've just decided that these little mistakes are not going to ruin my image and feelings towards the most beautiful and magical place I've ever been in my life.
Anyway....
The Top Ten Reasons I Love Spain:
1. The food! I've eaten seafood paella, the world famous (and rightly so) ham of Southern Spain, tapas, tapas, y tapas, the best ice cream and sweets, Mexican food (LOL) that was fantastic, and even more tapas, and SEAFOOD!!!
2. Sevilla. Me encanta Sevilla! It's about 2 hours out of Cadiz (where our boat was docked) and Kelsey, me, and some other girls rode the train there yesterday for about $20. While Cadiz is amazing and quaint, Sevilla is beyond words in beauty, shopping, and culture! I want to live there! I took a picture outside of a house for sale, so hey, you never know! Kelsey and I went into the famous Catherdal in Sevilla. It used to be a mosque, but when the Christians came, they destroyed all the Muslim relics, replacing them with their own. The current result is a Moorish structure with Christian artwork. It is unlike anything else I've seen. It is the home of Christopher Columbus' tomb, which was something to see. We bought a lot of stuff in Sevilla! I bought a wrap at H&M (lol) that will be a great head covering or shoulder covering for countries where I need to be more modest, like Morocco and India. In Spain a lot of women wear these pants that are reminiscent of Aladdin; they're flowly and puff out at the bottom. Well, for only 4,50 euros, I bought a pair! They are rather silly, but they are really really thin and will be great for the humid countries! Okay, but the best thing I bought in Sevilla was at a Borders-like store. I couldn't escape Europe without buying, of course, a DVD! I bought "El Graduado," which is the Spanish-dubbed "Graduate!" (I know what you're thinking, Megan and Ashley, will the obsession with "The Graduate" ever stop?!?!) It is my most awesome souvenir as of yet. We ate great food in Sevilla too. The best part was how many times we got lost in the University of Sevilla. We seemed to keep being forced to enter its grounds, only to come out the wrong end, surrounded by students going in all directions! The line of the day was, "Donde Estamos?" which means "Where are we?" When we asked locals that, they usually laughed at us and gladly showed us the way! Sevilla was a fantastic day trip!
3. The people. They come off stern and cold when you pass by the Spanish on the streets, but the second you ask for directions, or try to speak Spanish, or just talk to them, they turn from stern and cold to excitable and warm, playful and wild. They are so fun to hear and to be around. And they sleep all day and party all night! Which leads me on with my list....
4. Siesta. Siesta is Spanish for "nap." At 2pm, everyday, day in and day out, all Spaniards take a siesta. They close their shops, restaurants, and offices, and take a THREE HOUR lunch/nap break until 5pm. This may seem very odd to us Americans, being so obsessed with proficiency and speed. But no, in Spain, you sleep until 9am, open your shop at 10am, close from 2pm-5pm, and open again at 5pm, staying open until 11pm or midnight! All the Spanish stay out all night! The restaurants and bars don't even start serving dinner until 8pm or 9pm, and they all close at 6am!!! No joke! At 1am, there will still be little little kids out with their parents. The parents will be drinking and smoking cigarettes and the kids will be petting pigeons! It is actually pretty funny, because in America, family life is so different. But I guess when you sleep for 3 hours during the day, you can stay out later?
5. The history. The newest buildings in Cadiz seem to be from, you know, the 1700s. The forts that protected the city from Napoleon are still up, as well as the old wall that surrounded the city. It is so humbling to stand on cobblestones that thousands of years and even more feet have seen.
6. The Roman Ruins. Did any of you know that the Romans came into Spain?! I guess I should've known that, but I certainly was surprised to find Roman ruins all over Espana! I saw an old Roman theater, to name one structure. In Cadiz, the Romans were welcomed, as the Cadizians had been ravaged by other invaders, and thought Cesar would give them a hand! He did, and all people of Cadiz were given the privileges allowed to the Romans, including citizenship! I learned all of this on my trip to Gibraltar, thanks to my amazing tour guide, Maria-Carmen.
7. The beaches. Cadiz has the most beautiful beaches I've ever seen. The softest, whitest sand and the bluest, clearest waters, surrounded by beautiful jagged rocks, and flanked by old forts from I don't even know how long ago. At one beach in Cadiz, they have little huts that sell tapas and drinks during the late nights! So awesome to eat and drink in a hut on the beach of Spain! Down in that area they also had little huts that sold bracelets that I could've bought in Venice Beach, CA. LOL
8. One the second night, we went to the aforementioned beach area to shop and hang out, we ended up going to the only restaurant with seats open, which was a Mexican place! But, the food was sooo amazing and, most excitingly, the waitress spoke English! She loved us and kept bringing us free drinks! It was so much fun!
9. I love everything about Spain.
10. Tapas.
The Top Ten Things that SUCKED in Spain:
1. Wearing a money belt under my clothes. Uncomfortable, sweaty, and hard to use. I guess it is better than getting something stolen... maybe...
2. On the first day, I lost 20 euros.
3. On the third day, when we were in Sevilla, it was 10pm and we were getting ready to board the last bus home to our ship in Cadiz. We bought our bus tickets that morning so that if we ran out of money shopping (which we did) we would at least be able to get home. Well, at least we thought. As we start to board the bus, I realize I don't have my bus ticket. And the ticket teller refused to help me and just yelled at me in Spanish. Luckily, the bus driver believed me and my friends and let me on without a ticket.
4. On said bus ride home, I realized I had a horrible heat rash all over my legs. Lovely.
5. Oh yeah, then, this morning, I lost my debit card and my ID. (Don't worry, Mom canceled my card.)
Currently? Awaiting for embarkation towards Morocco and musing over traveling as a whole. When traveling, one risks so much--loosing luggage, passports, DEBIT CARDS, MONEY, BUS TICKETS, plane tickets, and valuable items. One risks being afraid and confused and yelled at because of language and cultural barriers. One risks missing the familiar. Missing it a lot. But then, one sees the Rock of Gibraltar and Sevilla, buys Aladdin pants and El Graduado, eats the best food in the world, and gets blasted by the Andalusian wind. It is easy to say the risks are worth it when standing in front of the oldest building in Europe (from, like, 900 AD?!), but not so easy when you are trying to buy lotion for your heat rash and you realize, as the cashier yells at you in a language you barely understand, that your debit card is missing. I'm trying to take the mistakes I've already made in Spain with me to the other ports I'm headed so as to not make silly mistakes anywhere else (especially since the other ports will be more dangerous and foreign to me than Spain has been).
I've just decided that these little mistakes are not going to ruin my image and feelings towards the most beautiful and magical place I've ever been in my life.
Sunday, September 6, 2009
My future home.......
....is Espana!!!! I love it here and I don't want to leave ever! I hopped on a bus and we toured the amazing, breathtaking Spanish coastline with its bright blue water and fine sand. Then on the tour, we hit the Rock of Gibraltar! After getting off our first bus, then walking through the border control (because Gibraltar is a colony of the UK and is not technically Spain), we got on a second bus to ride up to the top of the rock! There were monkeys everywhere! I couldn't believe it--they would just run right up to you! Needless to say, I got some fantastic pictures of me with various monkeys, as well as various pictures of monkey butts! ; ) We also went inside the rock where there was a cave! It was really cool.
When I got back, I took a siesta (I'm in Spain, after all!) and then one of my roommates, Liz, and I hit Cadiz! We walked around and saw the city. The Spanish stay up all night and sleep all day! And I'm not kidding, at midnight, there were still young children with their families everywhere! We did as the Spanish do, and tried the famous Sangria and ate tapas! It was a lot of fun! I have some great pictures, too. At one place we went to, a British couple was sitting next to us, so we talked to them for a while. It was fun to talk to someone in English! The Spanish refuse to talk to you in ingles, even though the tourist industry demands that they know the language, and they do. But they still are very proud about their culture and language. It makes me want to brush up on my Spanish so I can come back and stay forever! I say that now, but everyone says you will say that at every port, that you want to stay forever. We'll see if I want to stay in Ghana forever!
Today, I slept in, as I haven't had a day where I could sleep past 7:00 in over a week (which is NOT okay when they constantly keep advancing the clocks!). Then, I'm going to get lunch on the ship to save some euro, then walk around Cadiz with some friends. Tomorrow, we leave for Seville!
OMG--so I lost or misplaced 20 euros! I was really upset because it is only the first port and I'm usually really good about that stuff. I was wearing a money belt too, so my only thought is I dropped it somewhere. I guess I will just have to be more careful on the rest of the trip. I can't believe I've only been on the MV Explorer for a week; it feels like home already.
When I got back, I took a siesta (I'm in Spain, after all!) and then one of my roommates, Liz, and I hit Cadiz! We walked around and saw the city. The Spanish stay up all night and sleep all day! And I'm not kidding, at midnight, there were still young children with their families everywhere! We did as the Spanish do, and tried the famous Sangria and ate tapas! It was a lot of fun! I have some great pictures, too. At one place we went to, a British couple was sitting next to us, so we talked to them for a while. It was fun to talk to someone in English! The Spanish refuse to talk to you in ingles, even though the tourist industry demands that they know the language, and they do. But they still are very proud about their culture and language. It makes me want to brush up on my Spanish so I can come back and stay forever! I say that now, but everyone says you will say that at every port, that you want to stay forever. We'll see if I want to stay in Ghana forever!
Today, I slept in, as I haven't had a day where I could sleep past 7:00 in over a week (which is NOT okay when they constantly keep advancing the clocks!). Then, I'm going to get lunch on the ship to save some euro, then walk around Cadiz with some friends. Tomorrow, we leave for Seville!
OMG--so I lost or misplaced 20 euros! I was really upset because it is only the first port and I'm usually really good about that stuff. I was wearing a money belt too, so my only thought is I dropped it somewhere. I guess I will just have to be more careful on the rest of the trip. I can't believe I've only been on the MV Explorer for a week; it feels like home already.
Friday, September 4, 2009
SPAIN
So, I haven't been off the boat yet, but Spain is the most beautiful country I've ever been to. Off to Gibraltar, then exploring Cadiz, then traveling to Seville! I will write more as soon as I can!
Monday, August 31, 2009
"Get Used to Getting No Sleep"
Every morning I seem to set my alarm an hour or two earlier than the previous night, and every night on the ship we loose and hour. So basically, I don't sleep. Ever. Except when the ship is really rocky; you have to sleep or you'll get super seasick!
I have had all but one of my classes. I love my theater professor. He's this booming Southern gentleman named Ed Williams. He's taking us all out in South Africa to a theater night, all with dinner and some fine South African wine! I can't wait!
Now that classes have started, there are things to do on the ship! Hooray! But, at the same time, I don't seem to be getting anything done except emails, this blog, and hanging out. There are so many cool and interesting people on board. Yesterday I met some girls that I plan on traveling with when we get to Spain! Only 5 more days til LAND!!!!
Have you ever tried working out on an elliptical while on a moving ship? You rock one way on the ship, you move the opposite way on the machine! So weird!
I'm going crazy at the student store! I love all my Semester at Sea gear! : D
I have had all but one of my classes. I love my theater professor. He's this booming Southern gentleman named Ed Williams. He's taking us all out in South Africa to a theater night, all with dinner and some fine South African wine! I can't wait!
Now that classes have started, there are things to do on the ship! Hooray! But, at the same time, I don't seem to be getting anything done except emails, this blog, and hanging out. There are so many cool and interesting people on board. Yesterday I met some girls that I plan on traveling with when we get to Spain! Only 5 more days til LAND!!!!
Have you ever tried working out on an elliptical while on a moving ship? You rock one way on the ship, you move the opposite way on the machine! So weird!
I'm going crazy at the student store! I love all my Semester at Sea gear! : D
Sunday, August 30, 2009
Updates!!!
Hello all!
Sorry my last update was really short and had many typos... figuring out the ship internet and whatnot was not easy, but hopefully I got the hang of it! I can't check Facebook at all until I get to an internet cafe in the port cities; our internet access via the MV Explorer is super limited.
Please please please email me exclusively at mrtrausch@semesteratsea.net and NOT my yahoo account.
If I don't respond on facebook, its not personal--just email me instead or comment on my blog!
Okay... ANYWAY... I just had my first class. Keep in mind it is SUNDAY today and I started school! Yuck! But the days of the week have no meaning anymore; its either ship days or port days. I'm taking a big globalstudies class that everyone on the ship takes. It could be really cool, we'll see! I'm also taking World Cinema (YAY!), a class called The World in Literature and Film, and a class on Chinese, Japanase, and Indian Theater. One more class today, then two more tomorrow.
Let me describe my room on the ship. Well, firstly, the MV Explorer has different levels of cabins, from deluxe suites that will set you back an extra $10,000 (NO JOKE!!!), to regular double occupancy rooms, to economy suites that you share with 4 people. I signed up for the economy suites under the pretense that it would be two doubles connected by a bathroom. Well, those cabins DO exsist, but they are not in use. Why aren't they in use, you ask? Well they are on Deck 2, and Deck 2 is empty--reserved as a quarentine space in case of an outbreak of swine flu!!! SERIOUSLY!!!! So, instead of a double connected to another double, my roommates Ashley (!!!), Kelsey, and Liz, and I are in a room that was formally used as a crew cabin. As in the workers of the ship. As in there are 4 of us in one tiny room that lacks a window, any desks, any decorations, lamps, a counter top in the bathroom, a clothesline for drying clothes, full size closets, and dressers! Oh, and the normal cabins open with our Semester at Sea ID cards; our door opens (with a loud bang) with this huge, bulky key!
Hmmm.... yeah, not what I expected either, considering most of my classmates have nice little doubles. Some rooms even have balconies! Honestly, I'd be happy with a window so it isn't pitch black at 7:30am every day....
When I see the townships in South Africa, I know I will have NO complaints with my room, but still, I paid so much to be here, it would be nice to have a liveable space. That all being said, I really love all my roommates. I decided that I would rather live in a crap hole with people I like then in a mansion with people I hated. So, all in all, we're making it work. The other students who live in our hallway, also staying in crew cabins, are in the same boat... no pun intended... and we have all bonded. We call our hallway "The Ghetto" of the MV Explorer! LOL!!!
The MV Explorer is amazing! I've been eating meals outside on the decks. Imagine eating dinner with nothing, and I mean nothing, but the Atlantic Ocean surrounding you! It's surreal. Right now we're sailing to Cadiz, Spain, and for the next week (!!!!) I will only see boat and ocean. Weird. For this reason, I'm actually glad classes are starting because the ship is mentally boring without something to do, even if its homework. But I've met soooo many cool people and everyone hangs out in the lounges on the various decks. It is like freshman year all over again, where you sit with different groups of people every night, and ask and answer the same intro questions every five minutes! But I've already really bonded with some of the other students, so that's good.
I just can't wait to get to Spain so I can send postcards, check facebook, and get off this dang ship! Not that I don't love every inch of the MV Explorer, I'm just tired of rocking back and forth, getting lost, and never knowing where I'm supposed to be.
Also, everyday we keep loosing hours. I'm going to loose I think something like 24 hours by the time we get home to San Diego. Goodbye sleep! Seriously, though, GOODBYE sleep (breakfast ends at 8:30am! WHAT is that!?!?!)
Please email me at mrtrausch@semesteratsea.net
Love and miss everyone,
Monica
Sorry my last update was really short and had many typos... figuring out the ship internet and whatnot was not easy, but hopefully I got the hang of it! I can't check Facebook at all until I get to an internet cafe in the port cities; our internet access via the MV Explorer is super limited.
Please please please email me exclusively at mrtrausch@semesteratsea.net and NOT my yahoo account.
If I don't respond on facebook, its not personal--just email me instead or comment on my blog!
Okay... ANYWAY... I just had my first class. Keep in mind it is SUNDAY today and I started school! Yuck! But the days of the week have no meaning anymore; its either ship days or port days. I'm taking a big globalstudies class that everyone on the ship takes. It could be really cool, we'll see! I'm also taking World Cinema (YAY!), a class called The World in Literature and Film, and a class on Chinese, Japanase, and Indian Theater. One more class today, then two more tomorrow.
Let me describe my room on the ship. Well, firstly, the MV Explorer has different levels of cabins, from deluxe suites that will set you back an extra $10,000 (NO JOKE!!!), to regular double occupancy rooms, to economy suites that you share with 4 people. I signed up for the economy suites under the pretense that it would be two doubles connected by a bathroom. Well, those cabins DO exsist, but they are not in use. Why aren't they in use, you ask? Well they are on Deck 2, and Deck 2 is empty--reserved as a quarentine space in case of an outbreak of swine flu!!! SERIOUSLY!!!! So, instead of a double connected to another double, my roommates Ashley (!!!), Kelsey, and Liz, and I are in a room that was formally used as a crew cabin. As in the workers of the ship. As in there are 4 of us in one tiny room that lacks a window, any desks, any decorations, lamps, a counter top in the bathroom, a clothesline for drying clothes, full size closets, and dressers! Oh, and the normal cabins open with our Semester at Sea ID cards; our door opens (with a loud bang) with this huge, bulky key!
Hmmm.... yeah, not what I expected either, considering most of my classmates have nice little doubles. Some rooms even have balconies! Honestly, I'd be happy with a window so it isn't pitch black at 7:30am every day....
When I see the townships in South Africa, I know I will have NO complaints with my room, but still, I paid so much to be here, it would be nice to have a liveable space. That all being said, I really love all my roommates. I decided that I would rather live in a crap hole with people I like then in a mansion with people I hated. So, all in all, we're making it work. The other students who live in our hallway, also staying in crew cabins, are in the same boat... no pun intended... and we have all bonded. We call our hallway "The Ghetto" of the MV Explorer! LOL!!!
The MV Explorer is amazing! I've been eating meals outside on the decks. Imagine eating dinner with nothing, and I mean nothing, but the Atlantic Ocean surrounding you! It's surreal. Right now we're sailing to Cadiz, Spain, and for the next week (!!!!) I will only see boat and ocean. Weird. For this reason, I'm actually glad classes are starting because the ship is mentally boring without something to do, even if its homework. But I've met soooo many cool people and everyone hangs out in the lounges on the various decks. It is like freshman year all over again, where you sit with different groups of people every night, and ask and answer the same intro questions every five minutes! But I've already really bonded with some of the other students, so that's good.
I just can't wait to get to Spain so I can send postcards, check facebook, and get off this dang ship! Not that I don't love every inch of the MV Explorer, I'm just tired of rocking back and forth, getting lost, and never knowing where I'm supposed to be.
Also, everyday we keep loosing hours. I'm going to loose I think something like 24 hours by the time we get home to San Diego. Goodbye sleep! Seriously, though, GOODBYE sleep (breakfast ends at 8:30am! WHAT is that!?!?!)
Please email me at mrtrausch@semesteratsea.net
Love and miss everyone,
Monica
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